Weekend Brief Sept 2023: Bowmore, Ikikko, & Nikka
One of my favorite parts about any tasting is the bonus bottles that we all bring in to share or to have killed off. I love getting a peak into the electric collections of bottles people end up with and the stories of where some of the genuinely vintage, bizarre, or unusual bottles came from. The following trio of completely random bottles that I tasted at a recent SMWS Anniversary celebration have nothing else in common except that someone opted to bring it in to share.
The Bowmore was a truly vintage bottle brought to the event by a buddy to give everyone a chance to try some potentially rancid, soapy floral Bowmore— it turned out only a few people found the bottle to be that weird, and most seemed to quite enjoy it. The other two Japanese whiskies were freshly opened at the event by participants eager to share something new, or in the case of the Nikka 12-Year Single Grain, something they had purchased more than a decade ago but never opened. The Ikikko was a recent purchase, ImpEx is the importer for the distillery in the US, and a local sake shop, the fabulous and aptly named Sake Shop, managed to get a few cases, which they quickly sold through.
So the trio below do not necessarily have much in common, except that friends, old and new, wanted to share them. It does not get much better than that!
Whisky Details: Bowmore Cask Strength, 56%
Nose: Maritime with coastal floral notes of Morning Glories and Naupaka, hints of fruity guava, lychee, and rambutan with their woody pits, orange blossom and tidal ponds.
Palate: Medium-bodied and crisp, maritime and coastal with an underlying herbal character, melted summer fruit popsicles and woody sticks, tropical orange, guava, and lychee, mellow herbs with a touch of medicinal camphor and soft lavender, beach florals and grass.
Finish: Lingering maritime salt and fruit with subtle wood.
Score: 6-7
Mental Image: Dawn Patrol in the Water
Narrative & Notes: My buddy who poured this promised it was either a violet-lavender soap and perfume nightmare or something utterly brilliant. He reckoned there was no in-between, and the comments for this bottle on Whiskybase illustrate this clearly— though maybe there is a third group who find the floral perfume but still think it is brilliant. I enjoyed the pour, finding it similar to some of the other 1980s Bowmore I have tried. I often find the offending floral notes bathed in a lovely salinity so that they appear perfectly enjoyable to my palate, sort of a fresh floral coastal note like one might find with beachy vegetation in the morning. If anything, it reminds me of some of the brilliant and well-regarded early 2000s Bowmore, especially that Feb. 2004 vintage from SMWS. Overall, if others are going to look askance at these bottles, maybe there is more out there for me to enjoy!
Whisky Details: Ikikko 8 Year Kōji Whisky, Sherry Cask, 42%, Batch 5/30/2022
Nose: Very sherry with brown sugar, dried fruits, leather, and more subtle berry jam; with time came anise and licorice along with a slight creaminess.
Palate: Light-bodied and a touch oily, brown sugar and big butterscotch notes, caramel and chocolate Tootsie rolls, more butterscotch and a finale of pancake syrup with hints of red fruit.
Finish: Medium-length with caramel and pancakes.
Score: 5+
Mental Image: Pancake Syrup Mascot
Narrative & Notes: This fascinating kōji whisky from Ikinokura distillery differs from many other kōji whiskies that have come to the US. Rather than a rice base, it is 2/3s barley (though I am unsure if it was malted or unmalted). One of the aspects of kōji whiskies I have really enjoyed is the mouthfeel; oddly enough, that was one place this whisky stumbled. It was incredibly light on the palate, with only a gentle oiliness. I thought the flavors were more well-balanced and harmonious than some other whiskies of this type. The aroma was loaded with perfectly familiar sherry-bomb notes. However, the palate pulled back and moved much more firmly toward butterscotch and caramel. Overall, I thought this was quaffable and enjoyable— a whisky for relaxing rather than picking apart during a tasting.
Whisky Details: Nikka 12-Year Single Coffey Grain Whisky “Woody & Mellow,” 55%
Nose: Salted caramel and butterscotch, maple syrup, lacquered wood, vanilla custard and egg tarts with a touch of brûléed sugars.
Palate: Medium-bodied, oily, vanilla and red fruits, rich creamy custard, egg tarts, subtle pineapple and melon, sugar cookies, pepper and lacquered wood toward the end.
Finish: Medium-length with caramel and dusty old wooden antiques.
Score: 6+
Mental Image: Dim Sum Dessert Cart
Narrative & Notes: My favorite profile for grain whiskies is creamy— give me a whisky that brings to mind pastry cream, cream-filled donuts, chocolate cream pie, or rich vanilla custard. Or all of the above. While the aroma was sweet and simple, I thought the palate of this age-stated single grain from Nikka’s Miyagikyo distillery was loaded with creamy desserts and subtle fruits. It reminded me of egg tarts and custard stuffed buns— the sort of Dim Sum Desserts that are just as good at the beginning of the meal as the end, so long as they are fresh (though even then, I am not that picky). Overall, a deliciously sweet and creamy grain— not the sort of place you come looking for deep complexity, but when the right notes come together, it can be lovely.
