Weekend Briefs Sept. 2022: Vintage Whisky Trio
A round-up of brief reviews from a recent weekend and behold: old blends! These three dusty blended whiskies— two scotch and a Canadian— all date from a time when I could not legally drink or, in two cases, was not even alive. So to try them, I needed a time machine or some very generous accomplices.
Old blended whiskies are a lot of fun to taste and are typically the most cost-effective way to enjoy old whisky. Old bottles can often be found at auction, though estate sales are frequently the best place to find a genuine deal. While the bottles can be fun to taste, they are also a massive gamble as you rarely know how the bottle was stored. Typically fill level and the state of the packaging/label are significant clues. Still, you never know when you are about to pour something that has become virtually undrinkable cabbage water.
The older the bottle, the greater the risk. What is fun without a little risk? Yet, let that be a warning not to overpay for something that might not be very good. It is a gamble, and one should keep in mind that these bottles are often more fun than they are strictly good.
The time machine is ready, so on to the reviews!
Whisky: Dimple Pinch 15 Year (c. 1990s), 43%
Nose: Very fragrant and floral, watermelon rind, wispy smoke, tropical florals, morning glories, beach naupaka, hints of maritime salt and driftwood.
Palate: Medium-bodied, mellow tropical florals, tropical fruit hard candies, hibiscus, papaya, a kiss of salt, wispy smoke, mellow earthiness, achiote seeds.
Finish: Medium-length with perfume water notes, tropical florals, and a hint of smoke.
Score: 6-7
Commentary: A friend brought this out to kick off a tasting of old (90s and earlier) official distillery single malt releases. I was amazed at just how fragrant this whisky was— I was off taking photos of bottles, and suddenly the air was laden with tropical florals and watermelon. I thought for sure it was someone nearby enjoying some fresh-cut fruit or trying out a perfume. I was shocked when I realized it was this bottle that I had smelled. My friend believed the bottle dated from the 1960s; however, a quick examination revealed it was more likely from the 1990s as the size came in metric (post-1980 in the US) and had a surgeon general’s warning (post-1989). He was not too disappointed, though, because the blend was excellent, with well-integrated tropical vibes and undercurrents running toward earth, salt, smoke, and savoriness.
The current Dimple Pinch 15 Year does not quite have the same distinctive profile and nothing like the lovely finish of this bottle. However, in a pinch…
Whisky: Crown Royal Blended Canadian Whisky (1971), Waterloo Distillery 40%
Nose: Custard, creme brûlée, vanilla, hints of orange and caramel, vinyl, mellow tobacco, dry spice, cream.
Palate: Light body, mellow subtle cream, wood spice, caramel, cigar box, tobacco-scented leather chairs, a hint of orange.
Finish: Medium-length, mellow, hints of cream and spice.
Score: 4-5
Commentary: A blast from the past— a Crown Royal from the beginning of the 1970s when the whisky industry was still riding high, though facing increased headwinds. The Waterloo Distillery in Canada was the center of Crown Royal production then, though it was mothballed in 1990 after decades of declining demand. The distillery was largely destroyed in a 1993 fire and has since been redeveloped. So how does the Canadian ghost distillery compare to the modern editions produced at Gimli? I thought it fared pretty well; while modern Crown Royal centers on caramel and spice, this was exceptionally creamy, especially on the nose. It brought to mind any number of very mature single-grain Scotch whiskies. I thought the palate was light and simple, keeping it from scoring much higher.
Overall, a lovely blast from the past when these shelf staple brands were a few pegs higher in quality. As someone who fondly remembers Crown as the top-shelf whisky at clubs during my misspent 20s, it was a lot of fun trying a significantly older bottle.
Whisky: Chivas Regal 12 Year (c. 1970s), 43%
Nose: Subtle baking spices, leather, mellow tobacco, pastries, roasted almonds, hints of lacquered wood.
Palate: Medium-bodied, pastry crust, caramel, lacquered wood, salted butter, tobacco smoke, leather, velvet, almond flour.
Finish: Medium to short with pastry dough and leather.
Score: 4-5
Commentary: An old edition of the Chivas 12 Year from an era when blends were king and single malts an even more niche product than they are today. It compared favorably to the current Chivas 12 Year, of which I am not a fan. Indeed, it reminded me a lot more of the current Chivas 18 Year, which I like quite a bit. The current 18 has a bit more depth and a longer finish than this old 12, but the overall assortment and integration of flavors felt very similar. While I enjoyed this, the shortness of the finish and lack of a rich depth to the palate— possibly a product of the bottle’s age, though its condition and seal were excellent— kept it from scoring any higher.
