Weekend Briefs 2022.07: Glenmorangie, Nikka, Ben Nevis, and Clynelish
Another round-up of brief reviews from the weekend! The first three were drams left-over from a local whisky and food tasting. I usually quit taking notes when my palate gets a bit tired, and that evening I only tasted a handful of whiskies before I decided I was done. Better to concentrate on the food, enjoy the company, and worry about reviewing drams at a later date. I still sipped on pours of them and was not particularly in love with any. So it has taken me a while to get around to mindfully trying these whiskies. Drinking whisky you do not like is no fun, so I tend only to review things I know I will enjoy. But what better time to return to them and see if I remember them correctly than a quick set of briefs from the weekend!
The Clynelish 14 was not from a whisky tasting; it is a bottle I have been meaning to review for a long time. It is one of my favorite recommendations for people just starting with whisky— right up there with the Arran 10. I think it is a perfect gateway whisky for the scotch curious, but not a dram that requires a lengthy review— it is simple and simply delicious.
On to the weekend reviews!
Whisky Details: Glenmorangie 13 Year Cognac Cask Finish 46%
Nose: Fruit, shortbread, honey, hints of bubble gum and vanilla, lemon drops, canned cake frosting, sugar sprinkles, hints of orange and almond.
Palate: Medium to light body, plums and shortbread, hints of honey butter, orange and almond extract toward the finish.
Finish: Short and mild with shortbread and orange.
Score: 4
Narrative & Notes: Mellow, mild, and sweet, this cognac finished Glenmorangie made for a lovely porch sipping whisky. I thought the profile was simple and straightforward, with a coherent set of flavors that fit together well. The influence of the cognac casks did not create any off-notes, maybe a hint of bubblegum on the nose (a common cognac maturation note I do not typically enjoy). It was occasionally a bit prickly— or even hot— on the nose and the palate, an aspect that came through on the back end as most of the sweet fruity flavors faded. While I found this to be a relaxing dram to kick back with on the porch or even to sip on with a few ice cubes, it is not priced like that kind of whisky (currently £73.25 on the Whisky Exchange or $89.99 from Total Wine).
Whisky Details: Nikka Coffey Malt
Nose: Caramel, toffee, hints of creamy pudding, blondie bars, graham crackers, hints of cardamon and cinnamon, banana split Sunday
Palate: Light body, caramel, banana toffee pudding, butterscotch, hints of chocolate, banana soft-serve, a kiss of pepper and salt at the end, graham cracker pie crust, mellow oak.
Finish: Medium-length with salted caramel and graham crackers.
Score: 6
Narrative & Notes: Discontinued for a few years due to supply constraints— not enough suitable and available whisky maturing at Miyagikyo— Nikka Coffey Malt returns, and better than ever. According to Nikka, the current release meets all the trade standards agreed to by members of the Japanese Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association (JSLMA). Nikka was a founding member of the organization and promptly updated its website with information on its various releases and whether they met the guidelines set forth by the trade group (though those guidelines remain in a transition phase until 31 March 2024). Perhaps the most intriguing facet of the disclosure is that some historical batches of Nikka Coffey Malt (though we are not told when) contained malt whisky initially distilled at Ben Nevis. The whisky underwent its second/spirit distillation on the Coffey stills at Miyagikyo. Overall, the light mouthfeel and balanced flavor profile of the Coffey Malt work wonderfully, and the finish goes on much longer than expected.
Whisky Details: Ben Nevis 18 Year (2001) Refill Hogshead 52.8%, Douglas Lang for K&L
Nose: Mellow, freshly milled wheat, malted grain dough, subtle honey butter and apricot marmalade, hints of orange zest and lilikoi.
Palate: Medium-bodied, tobacco, driftwood, preserved lemons, bruised fruits, slightly sour fruit vinegar, herbal-grassy hay, ginger, musty tobacco and leather at the end.
Finish: Medium-length with sour bruised fruits, brown sugar, and tobacco.
Score: 5
Narrative & Notes: I initially tried this at a tasting some months back and brought home a sample so I could revisit it with a fresh palate. I was not fond of the dram when I first tried it— it seemed oddly herbal and lacked the tropical fruits adored by fans of the distillery. After that disappointing first experience, it took me a while to revisit the whisky. Indeed, it took a change of approach and permission to review the dram once and write up a quick set of notes without worrying about coming back several times with a full write-up and more careful consideration. I do not often even bother reviewing stuff I do not care for; it makes the process feel less like a fun hobby than a chore.
Back to the bottle at hand, I can see the appeal for those who love slightly sour woody or even herbal notes— I know some people find those reminiscent of old-school malts— but they are not my favorite. Despite knowing many fans, Ben Nevis and I remain a missed connection and a distillery that I just have not grown to love.
Whisky Details: Clynelish 14 Year, 46%
Nose: Mellow sweet citrus, clovers, grassy sugars, old-fashioned lemonade, hints of beeswax and chalk.
Palate: Medium to light body, citrus zest, minerality-chalk, beeswax, clover honey & chamomile tea, Nilla wafers, hints of butterscotch and pepper, ginger at the end.
Finish: Medium-length with citrus and mineral (like zinc-based sunscreen).
Score: 5
Narrative & Notes: I have frequently compared this malt to the Arran 10, a personal favorite, and after finally sitting down and writing up some notes, I will continue to do so. Clynelish 14 is a gateway whisky for many people, and for good reason. Its flavors are well-balanced and well-structured, while the medium to light mouthfeel gives it a delightful smoothness— there are no significant off-notes or prickly points. It is the kind of malt that really introduces someone to the possibilities of scotch (for me, that was Green Spot— not scotch, but it got me into whisky)— scotch does not have to be an unpleasant spirit bound to burn the palate, lingering with an odd bitterness and destined as no more than a mixer. The Clynelish 14 does make a great highball, but it is also excellent to sip straight-up at the end of the day.
