More Highland Park on tap today: this one just over a quarter century old and bottled as “Old Orkney” by Decadent Drinks The whisky spent most of the first 4/5s of its maturation in a refill barrel, receiving a first fill sherry finish for the last six years. I am not as suspicious of these big finishes as I used to be. Having had a number where they really seemed to elevate the malt, I no longer write them all off as simply a “rescue operation” on something that did not live up to standards. That said, I rarely seek them out myself and find that they are most fun when I can compare them against something that did not get a finish so I can judge for myself whether it was worth it or not.

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Whisky: Highland Park 25 Year (1999), Decadent Drinks “Old Orkney”

Country/Region: Scotland/Islands

ABV: 50.2%

Cask: Refill Hogshead, First Fill American Oak Sherry Butt (6Y)

Age: 25 Years (Distilled 1999, Bottled 2025)

Notes: Sea salt chocolate brownie crisps emerged from the aroma with brine, cocoa powder, and crispy, slightly burnt edges. A kiss of coal smoke and spilled petrol mingled with rubber harbor buoys and hints of dry earth and heather which occasionally came on much stronger. Medium-bodied on the palate, more fruits waved hello, like a slightly burnt berry cobbler coming out of the oven with a drizzle of cherry cough syrup. Bitter medicine shifted to melted rubber spatula as the flavors turned dirtier and a touch sulfurous. Big peppercorns and maritime brine lingered with barnacle crusted harbor buoys and smoldering tobacco. The finish was medium to long with more of those sulfury fruits that gradually faded toward pepper and finally something meatier and salmon-like.

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Score: 6-7 (80)

Mental Image: Anti-Scurvy Bitters on the Dock

Conclusion: The transitions and general evolution of this whisky in the glass was wonderful— each sip was like taking a little journey. I did not necessarily enjoy every stop along the way. Though I don’t mind a touch of sulfur in my whisky, for some reason I have more trouble with it when it comes from Highland Park. Some may find that gives the whisky some extra depth or almost an old-fashioned quality, but it felt incongruous with the rest of the experience. Overall, an interesting whisky— I think this is really a bar pour or something fun to pour for friends, especially those enjoy something a touch dirty.