I try never to miss these 2004 Bowmore from SMWS. They have consistently been good and offer up such a compelling combination of fruits, florals, and salty beaches that I cannot help myself. Whenever I open one, the bottle disappears remarkably fast— I typically take several years to finish a whisky, but the last couple of these I opened were gone within a year.

I also love to share them, and that only hastens their departure from my whisky shelf. Thankfully some of the other ex-bourbon Bowmore that have begun to pop up from independent bottlers exhibit some of the same profiles, though they always leave me wondering, why are none of the official bottlings like this?  Give me more floral, fruity, coastal Bowmore!

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Whisky: Bowmore 20 Year (2004), SMWS 3.355 “Tapas Tour!”

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 56.2%

Cask: 2nd Fill Bourbon (17Y), 2nd Fill Spanish Oak Oloroso Hogshead

Age: 20 Years (Distilled 16 Feb. 2004)

Notes: Cured meats and tropical fruits were spread out on an old walnut cutting board— olive oil lingered in the background with sour cherries, apricot preserves, and vanilla pudding: maybe a wedge of olive oil cake with fruits. Faintly maritime, though the saltier qualities felt more akin to cured pork than the sea. More floral spice slowly came into focus with annatto and pink peppercorns. Medium-bodied on the palate, the flavors were fruity and maritime, less meaty than the aroma with more tropical florals as passion flower tea and lilikoi juice appeared. Faintly earthy and dirty with muddy off-roading bike tires tracking in earth with a hint of rubber while guava gestured toward snacks grabbed in the bush. The finish was medium to long with sweet and sour tropical fruits, wispy smoke, soft brine, and a hint of old tractor tire.

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Score: 8 (87)

Mental Image: Jungle Bungalow

Conclusion: Delightful. Perhaps a step back from some of the best of its cohort with a slightly simpler, cleaner, and sweeter profile. It still carried plenty of earth, salt, and fruit to keep my attention, so it was no slouch.  The flavors were well-structured and defined— the whisky needed no water, but a few drops or time to rest did smooth out the touch of pepper on the finish and allow more fruits to come forward. The second fill oloroso finish elevated some of the fruitier and earthier qualities of the malt without overpowering its tropical nature.  Overall, a delightful dram and bottle— it did not last long.