This Bowmore was a distillery handfill, and one of those excellent bottles that a visitor can grab while on Islay.  Bowmore and Bruichladdich have perhaps the best options for visitors, with many of the other distilleries on the island offering fare that it fairly similar to what is already available on the store shelf, but at a premium (some of which is just the reality of spirits taxes). For many years there were few options if one wanted a cask strength Bowmore, and the distillery exclusives filled a wonderful niche— they were not cheap, but they were of high quality. I reckon the quality is still high, but cask strength Bowmore has become much easier to find in the last few years— though none quite like the sherry bomb below.

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Whisky: Bowmore 17 Year (2000), Distillery Exclusive Cask 2488

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 58.1%

Cask: First Fill Oloroso Sherry

Age: 17 Years (Distilled 6 Nov. 2000, Bottled 2018)

Notes: Black sugar buns, tar, pandan, and a kiss of maritime brine; the aroma was full of heady sherry notes, but the peaty malt was not entirely lost. Wispy smoke from burning dough and fresh takoyaki brought hints of shaved bonito flakes, Worcestershire sauce, and shoyu. Full-bodied and tannic on the palate, the flavor profile began with takoyaki and charcoal soot as maritime meat and sweet tangy sauce came together with a touch of hot metal. Charred rice balls and leather arrived with hints of salted pickled plums to provide a bit of fruit. A touch of coffee and heavily toasted baking spices lingered near the end with fireplace soot. The finish was long and drying with pepper, charcoal ash, black sugar buns, and a touch of salt.

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Score: 8-9 (89)

Mental Image: Takoyaki Street Market

Conclusion: Bowmore and sherry pair wonderfully together, so it is not hard to understand why sherry maturations feature heavily in Bowmore’s house style. I prefer my Bowmore a bit fruitier and more maritime, but this was excellent. The peated malt held its own against the big first fill cask, and the whisky had a lovely richness and savory complexity to it— like a nested doll slowly revealing layer, after layer. I loved this more each time I poured it. Overall, fantastic savory sherry bomb.