Field Briefs: A Few Favorites from Glenburgie, Longmorn, and Ledaig at the Auld Alliance
After I sat with the Ben Wyvis I reviewed previously, a friend joined me at the Auld Alliance for a few more drams. I took the opportunity to do a quick tour through some of my favorite distilleries.
I have reviewed more than my fair share of Longmorn, Glenburgie, and Ledaig, but could not resist the chance to try a few more. Even if I had already tasted a handful of Ledaig during my evening whisky explorations in the city.
The Longmorn was a recommendation by the staff at the Auld Alliance who thought some of the eccentric and farmy aspects of the malt would be to my taste. The other two I sussed out while looking for interesting things from my favorite distilleries— 1980s Glenburgie can be delightfully weird, though this was fairly straightforward, and 1997 Ledaig beautifully filthy— nothing quite as epic as the Ben Wyvis, but sometimes its best to settle in with old friends than chasing trophies or Pokédex entries. Easy to say after knocking out a big one!
Whisky Details: Longmorn 35 Year (1975), Nectar of the Daily Drams, 50.8%
Nose: Mellow and coastal with soft tropical fruits— kiwis and nectarines with a touch of floral peach; mineral rich with sea shells and slightly peppery mineral water; more earth and tangy passionfruit with time.
Palate: Medium-bodied and viscous with a coastal cleanliness that hiked inland to a spring meadow and became earthier with a touch of pasture over time; initially passion fruit, guava, and mango on ice; a touch of cream and buttery pastry later on; dried grass and coastal pastures toward the end.
Finish: Medium-length with earth, fruit, and a kiss of salt.
Score: 8 (88)
Mental Image: Fruit Farm on the Coast
Narrative & Notes: This bottle came highly recommended by the fantastic folks at the Auld Alliance who reckoned its touch of farmy funk better matched my tastes than the 1984 vintage Longmorn I had been eyeing. That bottle had a heavy sherry maturation, so I was a bit unsure whether it would really suit my taste, but found the prospect tempting. There are some distilleries I enjoy with a big warm sherry blanket and Longmorn is not among them as I find my favorite aspects of the malt tend to get lost in the shuffle.
While I did not find this quite as funky as expected, or promised, there were elements of coastal pastures present, especially on the palate. I was surprised how coastal the whisky was and it immediately reminded me of a more refined version of SMWS 7.247, another very coastal Longmorn that I adored.
Overall, tropical and coastal goodness— a great recommendation.
Whisky Details: Glenburgie 26 Year (1989), Silver Seal Cask 16311, 52.8%
Nose: Musty fruits— a strawberry salad with balsamic glaze; annatto seeds with soft floral spice, pomegranate and more tangy fruits developed over time; hints of leather and rubber in the background.
Palate: Medium-bodied, fruity and floral with a touch of brine; berry syrups with sweet balsamic over ice cream; cedar and fragrant woods brought to mind cologne with a lingering mineral or limestone quality; a touch drying with malty pastries lingering at the end.
Finish: Long with a gentle mineral bite, berries, and floral annatto spice.
Score: 8 (89)
Mental Image: Down the Old Strawberry Mines
Narrative & Notes: I love Glenburgie— as anyone who knows me or looks at this site with any frequency will already well know. There were so many temptations and treats available in Singapore, that I barely had time to visit the distillery; certainly nothing like the time I gave over to tasting various Ledaig. Yet, when I had an opportunity to squeeze one into a lineup, I made sure to.
Besides Glenburgie, I love bright strawberry and tangy balsamic notes and this had a bit of each with some floral spice lingering in the background. Annatto seeds, also known as achiote, are the product of the lipstick plant and fantastic seasoning for rice turning it a lovely red hue. Annatto is another of my favorite notes to encounter with their floral, earthy, spicy qualities.
Overall, delightful and refreshing with many of my favorite Glenburgie elements, especially the interplay of fruit, earth, and minerals, alongside some of my favorite flavor notes.
Whisky Details: Ledaig 15 Year (1997), Jack Wiebers, 57.7%
Nose: Filthy and smokey— dirty with rubber and tar alongside sinus-clearing burnt herbs; smoke and brine pointed the way to roadwork until an underlying fruitiness crashed in— a Pompeian wine merchant perhaps? Bold and unrestrained with ash and earth while hiking through a charred landscape.
Palate: Medium-bodied with a syrupy disposition, guava and ash, tangy coastal brine with burned palm fronds and discarded fruit skins; a touch of rubber to juicy plums; charred grapes as it settled.
Finish: Medium-length with tropical fruits, brine, rubber, and ash.
Score: 8 (87)
Mental Image: Charred Grapes on Vesuvius
Narrative & Notes: Filthy and robust. To end the flight on a high note, I wanted peat. I scanned the wonderfully long menu at Swan Song and settled on Ledaig. The 1997 bottles can be some of the absolutely peatiest and dirtiest malts from the distillery. They have not always been to my taste, and for that matter neither has casks from Jack Wiebers, but I was willing to roll the dice.
I am glad I did— despite the somewhat mid bottle design and label, I am not a car person and do not like opaque bottles, the whisky inside was excellent. There was a clear structure and evolution to the flavors with a wonderful balance between sweet fruits and ashy-tar.
Overall, a reminder not the judge a book, or bottle, by its cover.
