Field Briefs: Searching for Soap at the Auld Alliance with Glen Flagler, Bowmore, and Glen Esk
I stumbled into the Auld Alliance, a renowned whisky bar in Singapore, looking to try something new. Specifically, I wanted to check off another couple entries on my distillery Pokédex. There are only a handful of active distilleries that are not also part of the new wave that I have never tried and only a slightly longer list of not super obscure or very long shuttered ghost distilleries. Sadly, there was no Kininvie or Knockando to finally check those off my list— but, there was a Glen Flagler! Not a well-regarded bottle of it— if there even are any— but this was more about checking something off a list than searching out the best bottle possible. That can come later.
From Glen Flagler, which I was warned some find a bit soapy, I ventured to 80s Bowmore, in search of something with even soapier vibes. After I found the Bowmore to be rather beachy and pleasant, floral in the way of morning glories and other beach flowers, I surrendered and turned to a mature Glen Esk to close out the evening on a high note.
Whisky Details: Glen Flagler 8 Year (c. 1970s), 40%
Nose: Musk and violet flavored hard candies lingered in the air with grape must and chia seeds; hints of butterscotch rested further in with swimming pool chemicals and wet humid stone.
Palate: Light-bodied and gentle with perfumy cedar wood and floral white orris; oak moss with gentle vanilla, gardenia and violets lingered like Grandmother’s perfume alongside malty cookies and a touch of pepper.
Finish: Medium to short with subtle cream, floral vanilla, cookies, and oak.
Score: 5 (75)
Mental Image: Aroma Therapy
Narrative & Notes: Gentle and mellow, I had few expectations coming into this whisky and, while I know some will see the score and think I hated it, I actually found it rather pleasant. It was not the sort of dram I will rush out to try again, but it was enjoyable— so long as one does not mind a touch of florals, musk, and old perfume. I do not, in fact, I love musk flavored candies and this tickled that similar itch.
Glen Flagler ceased production in 1985 and was completely demolished three years later. The distillery only operated for twenty two years, yet within that time there were a number of official single and pure malt releases. That makes the distillery a bit of an oddity considering how few distilleries had official releases at the time.
Overall, an intriguing historical artifact.
Whisky Details: Bowmore 30 Year (1982), Silver Seal, 48.8%
Nose: Coastal and floral as if visiting the beach in the early morning; distant hints of smoke and shrimp trawlers— ships heading out to sea; tropical hibiscus and passionflower with coconut, guava, and hints of citrusy-floral shikuwasa; a touch of dryer sheets at times with lavender.
Palate: Medium-bodied, peppery with floral fruits, strawberry musk candies, green mango and a touch of funky papaya with a twist of lime and sprinkle of salt; creamy pear tart toward the end with fruity almond extract, marzipan, and accents of smoke.
Finish: Long and lingering with fruity almond extract, soft coastal brine, and a kiss of smoke.
Score: 8 (88)
Mental Image: Ice Chest of Fruits at the Beach
Narrative & Notes: After the slightly floral Glen Flagler I got to talking to the bartender about other floral whiskies and our war stories— or horror stories— of pouring them. I asked if he had any floral recommendations, especially of 1980s Bowmore, as I have had several from the era but never found any to be properly soapy. This was the bottle he came up with.
Certainly I can see why some of the floral and fruity elements strike some as soapy— but they always bring me back to Lanikai Beach in the morning. Decades ago it was a quiet and cool experience, shaded from the early morning sun at certain times of the year with a crisp and clean salty air that conveyed a lively sweet floral quality. Nowadays I expect the beach is bustling from the moment the sun rises— it’s hard for a beautiful beach to stay a secret for long.
Whisky Details: Glen Esk 31 Year (1984), The Cooper's Choice Cask 5282
Nose: Pineapple shortbread cookies with macadamia nuts— slightly fruity and a touch fatty with a malty sweetness; fruitier the longer it sat in the glass with more tropical citrus and grapefruit; fresh and clean with just hints of motor oil in the background.
Palate: Medium-bodied with big bright white pineapples and freshly sliced ginger; acidic fruits gradually cooled as tangy curd and cream developed with green apple and fruity chilis; herbal toward the end with a hint of tobacco and yeasty fermentation.
Finish: Medium-length with soft fruits and pepper.
Score: 8 (87)
Mental Image: Garage Conversion; Motor Pool to Fruit Importer
Narrative & Notes: I surrendered to the idea of trying soapy whisky after that delightful Bowmore and switched gears back to following the call of the closed distilleries. Unlike Glen Flagler, I have encountered Glen Esk a handful of times. It is still difficult to compare and really understand things that you rarely get to try— to know when a particular cask is expressing an eccentricity or a classic distillery note. While I have had a few Glen Esk, I have no idea how to describe the distillery style.
This recently opened bottle transitioned nicely as it sat in the glass, developing further with every sip and gradually opening up with layers of fruits and hints of dirtier motor oil and dank herbal qualities. It featured some old fashioned malty elements, but was otherwise a fairly clean and straightforward experience.
