Mortlach 19 Year (2001), SMWS 76.149 “Flavour maze”
A new week, a new theme at the Whiskery Turnip Factory. This week the spotlight turns to SMWS, one of the most prolific independent bottlers of scotch whisky. Though the society began humbly enough, with just a cask of Glenfarclas dumped into mason jars and whatever containers the original syndicate members had handy, they now bottle hundreds of casks a year. The week begins with a delightful Mortlach we poured with my local whisky club last year. Whenever it takes me a while to finish a review from a tasting event, it's either because I did not care for it or I really liked it and savored my takeaway sample. This was the latter.
Whisky: Mortlach 19 Year (2001), SMWS 76.149 “Flavour maze”
Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside
ABV: 56.3%
Cask: Bourbon Hogshead (17Y), First Fill Spanish Oak Oloroso
Age: 19 Years (Distilled 30 Sept. 2001)
Nose: Big sherry-driven fruits, currants, musty florals, nutmeg and chicory, cinnamon, slightly sour at times, meaty and syrupy, Lingonberry jam and Swedish meatballs, mild floral perfume and spice
Palate: Medium-bodied, floral and musty, dried currants, tart strawberry, hints of tobacco, cola, hints of bitter burnt sugars, semi-sour pickled fruits, creamy toward the end.
Finish: Long and lingering with florals, fruits, cream, and a hint of salt.
Score: 7
Mental Image: Summer Fruit Preserves and Scones
Narrative & Notes: Rich and complex, the aroma had a perfumey quality that drifted between dried fruits, baking spices, wood, and musk. Big sherry-driven fruits emerged first with currants, tart blackberries, and stewed plums, while classic baking spices, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and chicory followed suit. A subtle floral perfume paired with celery, a gentle sour musk, and rich meat. Was it Lingonberry jam and Swedish meatballs or turkey smothered with gravy and cranberry sauce? Medium-bodied and syrupy, the flavor profile danced from musty florals to dried fruits to clotted cream. Dried currants, tart strawberries with hints of balsamic, and stewed plums spiced with anise and cinnamon arrived with hints of tobacco and cherry cola. Bitter burnt sugars sometimes appeared with semi-sour pickled plums and pears. A few drops of water washed away those bitter notes and brought forward cream which otherwise lingered at the end. The finish was long and lingering with florals, fruits, cream, and a kiss of salt.
My expectations for this malt were fairly restrained— I am always suspicious of a sherry finish on a malt, even if it can be incredibly well done. I invariably wonder what was wrong with the malt to necessitate bludgeoning it with another cask for a few years. However, this was one of those instances where the finish seemed to elevate the whisky. It helped that the spirit was on the thicker side so that even when the cask stole the spotlight, there was plenty of Mortlach character— especially those floral, meaty, and musky notes.
Overall, Mortlach goes well with sherry; I should never have doubted that.
