Kirkland Signature Speyside 22 Year; Alexander Murray
Whisky : Kirkland Signature Speyside 22 Year; Alexander Murray
Country/Region : Scotland/Speyside
ABV : 46%
Cask : Ex-Bourbon, 6 mo.+ Ex-Sherry Finish
Nose : Fruity and malty with dried figs, dates, and chocolate covered berries. Earthy sweet ginger, worn leather, and fresh toasted dark bread give.
Palate : Medium to light body with a mild dryness. Savory notes of sweet barbecue, rye bread, and a pinch of salt hint at some meatier undertones. Plenty of dried fruits, bit of fudge, sweet Christmas cake, mellow pepper spice, and subdued sherry sulphur and leather funk come near the end.
Finish : Lovely lingering finish of dense fruit cake and a kiss of salt.
Score : 6
Notes : Should you buy this? Well for $80 I would say it is a pretty solid 22 year old single malt. There is a lot to love in this well balanced bottle. You simply are not going to find something else at a similar age, with a similar complex profile, bottled at 46% anywhere else. It is not hard to imagine that if this were bottled with the distillery name splashed across it, that it could command a higher price.
Overall, this is a pleasant bottle that combines elements of a rich malty Speyside with the influence of Oloroso and Pedro-Ximenez Sherry casks. There is a lot to enjoy here and Alexander Murray did a great job creating a balanced and enjoyable dram. Indeed, this single malt compared very favorably to the previous 18 Year Old and 20 Year Old from the same line. While it is impossible know whether the same anonymous distillery was used for all three editions, their overall flavor profile has been similar. This edition was easily the most complex of the three and presented the most savory notes to balance against the sherried sweetness. I have a pretty good inclination this bottle will change as it has time to breath and oxidizes, so I will update this review if my thoughts change.
It is a perfect ‘mystery malt’ for the beginner to scotch or old hand who is looking for something new to try and to share with friends. So who is the mystery distillery? Well Alexander Murray founder Steve Lipp has stated before that the anonymity reflects Kirkland/Costco’s desire for their own mark to be upfront and center. They want you buying this bottle because you have faith in their brand rather than any distillery. That said, Lipp has teased in interviews in the past that the largest Speyside distilleries his company has sourced malt from have included Glenrothes, Tomintoul, Clynelish, and Glen Ord. From that list, I would strongly reckon that the bottle reminds me of Glenrothes— though beyond those possibilities, I would hazard Glentauchers as an outside possibility as well.
