Kirkland Signature Speyside 20 Year (2020 Ed.) — Whiskery Turnip

Oct 8

Oct 8 Kirkland Signature Speyside 20 Year (2020 Ed.)

Whisky : Kirkland Signature Speyside 20 Year (2020 Ed.)

Country/Region : Scotland/Speyside

ABV : 46%

Cask : Ex-Bourbon, finished 6 mo. in Oloroso Sherry

Nose : Malty whole wheat biscuits, honey, and strawberry jam. Subtle notes of oak spice, vanilla, and leather hand in the background while sherry driven fruits— dried figs, dates, and cherries— come to the fore.

Palate : Medium to light body with a good tannic dryness. Dense and sweet notes of rum raison cake, fruit cake, and gingerbread houses. It feels like winter with vanilla, pepper, and cinnamon coming through. As the whisky opens up notes of fudge, currant jam, and a bit of leather come through. A few drops of water brought out more spice and fruit while smoothing out some of the tannic astringency.

Finish : Lingering dry finish with fruit cake and bit of honey.

Score : 6

Mental Image : Raiding the Gingerbread Village

Notes : Looks like 2020 has brought another new Kirkland Signature single malt to the market! Earlier this year saw the release of a 22 Year sherry finished Speyside and now we have a new version of the 20 Year sherry finished Speyside. I say new version because the label has undergone a subtle, yet significant change— the bridge pictured on it is different (or the angle has just changed). This is the same artwork that appeared on the 22 Year, so it stands to reason that these two editions come from the same distillery.

Now which distillery is it? While in the past Steve Lipp, founder of Alexander Murray, stated that the independent bottler often acquired casks from Glenrothes, Tomintoul, Clynelish, and Glen Ord among other Speyside distilleries— the bridge pictured on the label is Craigellachie Bridge. If the label is in fact a clue, then it certainly stands to reason that this could be a 20 Year single malt from Speyside distillery Craigellachie. The only thing that gives me pause, is the fact that I did not get a whole lot of the minerality or meatiness that Craigellachie usually has. The use of giant wooden worm tubs in distillation usually gives the spirit a fairly recognizable character and I just do not get a whole lot of that on this bottle. Now my palate is far from perfect and I have not had a lot of sherried Craigellachie, so it’s possible the sherry casks dampen that spirit character.

All that said, considering how scotch marketing/branding sometimes works, it's entirely possible the label designer just thought it looked cool and told a particular story with no deeper meaning.

Overall, the whisky itself is pretty good and certainly worth picking up if your looking for a nice easy drinking bottle with a fruity sherry influence. The price has ticked up a bit, but I think the overall quality of the 20 Year is stronger this year than last— there is certainly more sherry influence and a stronger malty characteristic, though the overall mouthfeel is a bit thinner. I would rank it ahead of the release last year as well as the 22 Year from earlier this year.