It seems most people fell in love with the 1996 Ben Nevis vintage as the whiskies began to hit their mid-20s in age. I am sure there were fans before, but this vintage hit something of its peak just as the whisky industry caught on absolute fire— at least partially fueled by pandemic spending among those who found themselves trapped at home. This particular whisky was bottled by Single Cask Nation, a label under the Jewish Whisky Company, which is now under the umbrella of Artisanal Spirits, the parent company for SMWS.

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Whisky: Ben Nevis 23 Year (1996), Single Cask Nation Cask 1839

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 50.4%

Cask: 2nd Fill Bourbon Hogshead

Age: 23 Years (Distilled Nov. 1996, Bottled Nov. 2019)

Notes: Fruity and creamy, the chopped peaches, kiwis, and mandarin oranges had a touch of Greek yogurt to them. With curds, whey, and apricots I remembered visiting a cheese making cooperative in France. Wax candles, rinds, butterscotch, and wood carried me on to the gift shop where we did a small tasting. Medium-bodied and oily, the palate matched the aroma closely as fruits and creams arrived first with a bit of pepper and wood near the end. Peaches and green apple hard candies provided a sweeter edge to the chopped fruits, creamy yogurt, caramel pudding, and peppery finale. The finish was long with soft pepper, waxy fruits, and drying wood.

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Score: 7-8 (86)

Mental Image: Fresh Cheese and Fruit

Conclusion: Unusual, but delicious, this was the creamiest 1996 Ben Nevis I have ever encountered, though the fruitier aspects and underlying woody elements put me on more familiar ground. The flavors were bold and the aroma vivid with enough peppery spirit toward the end to give it a liveliness. I enjoyed the oiliness, almost fattiness, of the mouthfeel— this felt decadent and rich, perhaps a touch too much at times. That might not be a vice though, if each sip is so satisfying, the bottle is likely to last a bit longer!  Overall, a variation on a theme, this was delightfully unique.