Diageo has made significant changes to their Special Release branding and iconography over the years. I would describe the current imagery as more vibes based, or quasi-impressionistic than anything, but for a few years there were labels like this. I heard someone describe the style as “Magic the Gathering” meets whisky, probably something like MtG c. early 2000s.

I hate to begin the review with complaints about the label, because I actually do not mind it that much. As I see it, the problem is that these kind of labels look dated relatively quickly; they lack the classic or timeless fashion of the earlier ones. I love a good art label, but these did not feel classy. I think some of the more recent ones have been better, but I would still prefer a classic and clean label.


Whisky: Lagavulin 12 Year, Special Release 2021

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 56.5%

Cask: Refill American Oak

Age: 12 Years (Bottled 2021)

Notes: Smoke, salt, and lumber— were we building longboats or outriggers on the shore? Wood, tar, and hessian kept that imagine front of mind as more subtle layers of citrus rind, vanilla, menthol, and wormwood appeared. A touch of glue and turpentine provided a chemical or medicinal edge. Medium-bodied on the palate, the flavors were similar, though buttery citrus came to the fore leaving charred wood, tar, hessian, sand, and salt further in the background with peeled oranges. We took a break from shipbuilding to dine on buttery rolls, clotted cream, and rhubarb preserves. Toward the end came black pepper and a touch of motor oil. The finish was long and buttery with ash, sand, pepper, and sea.


Score: 6-7 (81)

Mental Image: Building the Resolution at Matavai Bay

Conclusion: Surprisingly balanced, the aroma was a touch odd and not altogether composed, but everything fell into place on the palate. I was surprised how well the spirit felt integrated, while some of the Lagavulin I have had lately were quite peppery, this saved those elements for a mild finale. This was incredibly buttery on the palate. Though the peat shy may still find it a bit acrid or even bitter at times, I thought it was wonderfully composed. Overall, this was one of the few times I found the aroma of a whisky less than desirable, but the palate full of fun.

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