Field Briefs: An Islay Detour
Today’s weekend brief featured a quick detour from the ongoing Caol Ila deep dive. That will continue for another week, but for now, I have a few quick hits to other distilleries on Islay: Bowmore and Bunnahabhain.
These were all poured during a catch-up tasting with a few buddies; the first Bunnahabhain was bottled for a friend’s whisky bar in Japan and was freshly opened for the tasting, the Bowmore had been open for a bit, and the final Bunnahabhain was the only one I had tried previously, but not taken notes.
Of these two Islay stalwarts, I am more biased toward Bowmore, especially independently bottled Bowmore. The core range from the distillery can be rather tepid, though there are some cracking limited edition official releases. I have never been particularly hot on Bunnahabhain, though even I will admit their Fèis Ìle releases from the last several years have been fantastic. As a result, I may naturally be underselling the Bunnahabhain and overrating the Bowmore.
Whisky Details: Bunnahabhain 15 Year (2008), Hunter Laing Cask HL20484 for Aloha Whisky’s 5th Anniversary
Nose: Classically Bunnahabhain with big lemony citrus and dried grass, mellow maritime notes in the background with a touch of cream, roasted nuts.
Palate: Medium-bodied and citrusy with tropical lychee, dried grass and mellow earth like a well-used soccer field in the summer, roasted hazelnuts lingered further in with a mellow nuttiness, resinous at times, subtle lemon grass, spirited peppery tingle.
Finish: Long and lingering with lemon, herbs, and a touch of pepper.
Score: 6 (78)
Mental Image: Upscale Bakery’s Cupcake Party Variety Box
Narrative & Notes: Happy birthday to the intrepid Aloha Whisky Bar in Japan! I doubt David, the owner, could have ever imagined what he was getting into when the bar opened in 2019—certainly, a global pandemic was not on the radar. Yet, the bar survived an incredibly turbulent period and became one of the most highly recommended for the hordes of travelers who have descended on post-pandemic Japan.
This was an interesting one— minimal cask influence, classic Bunnahabhain grass and coast brine, and some uncommon twists such as cream and hazelnut. If I had found some of the chocolate Hunter Laing mentioned on the label, this could have been an absolute Nutella feast instead of a dusty soccer field.
Overall, pleasant, if not a touch peppery at times and sure to please distillery fans or anyone raising a glass at Aloha Whisky.
Whisky Details: Bowmore 17 year (1997), SMWS 3.248 “Like a hot coal in the mouth”
Nose: Barbecue competition by the beach— maritime brine, beach tar, tarry ropes, grilled fruits, charcoal smoke, honey cakes with roasted figs, and the mouthwatering ham that just came out of the smoker.
Palate: Medium-bodied and maritime with charred wood, hot stone, mesquite wood, grilled fruits, swimming pool chemicals, tar, hot ham, and rich treacle.
Finish: Long and lingering with honey and ash.
Score: 8 (87)
Mental Image: Steam Punk Beehive
Narrative & Notes: Beautifully balanced with loads of sweet peat— I adore a good Bowmore, and this delivered. The bottle I tasted this from had been open for a little while, and after reading a few reviews from friends, I think it benefited from some time to breathe and open up as I found a good bit more depth and structure on the profile. I enjoyed this so much that I returned for seconds, which is not something I usually do during a whisky tasting.
Overall, beautiful Bowmore from years past— as much as I love some of the more tropical profiles you can find from 2004 Bowmore and other more recent vintages, the sweet ash, meaty, and industrial elements on a bottle like this are just a delight.
Whisky Details: Bunnahabhain 28 Year (1978), Signatory Vintage Cask 2853
Nose: Old and dignified with gentle coastal brine drifting among waxy candles, spiced incense, cigar boxes, and sherried fruits; wine-like with rich dark fruits and lacquered wood, candied cantaloup or strawberries appeared with time.
Palate: Medium-bodied with pipe tobacco and cigar boxes among plum syrups and burning incense; jammy cassis and currants with lacquered wood; waxiness grew with time like a melting candle illuminating a tropical, caramelized lilikoi creme brûlée.
Finish: Long and lingering with dried tropical fruits and tobacco spice.
Score: 8-9 (90)
Mental Image: Cigar Club Beach Verandah
Narrative & Notes: Unlike the other two bottles, I was fortunate enough to have already tried this bottle. A good friend brought it out and first opened it earlier this year on my birthday at the end of a tasting, and I thought it was fabulous—one of the best Bunnahabhain I have ever tried. Coming to it again a few months later, and this time taking notes, I was not disappointed. If anything, it was better than I remembered.
The waxy quality of the aroma, which appeared and slowly built on the palate, eventually extending the finish, reminded me of a Clynelish or some of the old sherried Craigduff from Signatory Vintage. The quality of the cask was immaculate, endowing deep, rich fruits and spice to the maritime aspects of the malt. The finish was incredibly long and gentle, with hints of fennel and tobacco spices mingling among fruits and melted candles.
Overall, fantastic example of why some go crazy searching out old sherried whiskies.
