Weekend Briefs Sept. 2023: Kilchoman Tasting at Pint & Jigger Part I
The tetralogy of reviews below was done during a Kilchoman charity tasting event at Pint & Jigger and hosted by Kilchoman’s Catherine MacMillan, with all proceeds donated to support relief efforts on Maui. It was one of a series of whisky events to raise money for recovery efforts as people continue on the long path to recovery and renewal.
Kilchoman provided half the lineup via their US import partner ImpEx and local retailer Fujioka’s. The reviews below cover those core products and some recent special releases. A second tetralogy of reviews covers the bottles Chris Uhde of ImpEx provided from his personal collection. So the tasting featured a wonderful mix of recent releases, core products, past releases, and a few very special single casks.
As I understand it, the tasting sold out very quickly— I guess I was not the only one who saw the announcement and promptly signed up! The combination of a beloved distillery, beloved bar, and charitable donation was such that even though the event was on a Wednesday night and required a forty-five-minute commute, my wife and I committed.
Cheers to everyone at Kilchoman, ImpEx, Fujioka’s, and Pint & Jigger that made the event possible.
Whisky Details: Kilchoman Machir Bay
Nose: Salt iodine, lemon peel candies, cigar box, dried grass, maritime with an underlying sweetness and hints of acrid smoke on the top.
Palate: Medium to light body, crisp salt and lemony citrus, subtle ash and old grill, lemon rind and orange juice, mellow medicinal herbs and tobacco.
Finish: Mellow with citrus and salt— maritime and mild, hints of heather and florals with more time.
Score: 5-6
Mental Image: Flotsam Lemons on the Beach
Narrative & Notes: Friendly and gentle, this batch of the Machir Bay was less ashy and acrid than I recall. The aroma was just as good as I remember, with a beautiful blend of maritime brine, sweet citrus, and tobacco smoke. Kilchoman smells so lovely; I cannot recall a single one that did not have a beautiful aroma. I have had a few that fell a bit flat on the palate, but this incarnation of the Machir Bay had a bit more weight than I recall it previously carrying, which lent the citrus more vibrancy and presence. Overall, Machir Bay remains a great entry-level product and a solid introduction to peated whiskies and Kilchoman.
Whisky Details: Kilchoman Sanaig, 46%
Nose: Maritime and rich, grilled seafood, dried fruits and hints of coffee, aromatic herbs, bergamot and spruce, hints of grilled prawns.
Palate: Medium-bodied and viscous, maritime brine and toasted sugars, dried fruits, burning grass and heather, sangria— orange and red fruit, a touch of peppercorn and winter spice— winter herbs and chimney smoke.
Finish: Medium length with dried fruit, salt, hints of tar.
Score: 6
Mental Image: Beach Wedding Buffet
Narrative & Notes: A quality sherried malt with an additional richness that really carries it above the Machir Bay. I wish this product were a touch cheaper, as it makes for an even better introduction to the distillery than Machir Bay. Those two products make up the entirety of Kilchoman’s core lineup. For a long time, the distillery was the smallest on Islay. It is no giant today, but it has tripled capacity over the last decade, and it stands to reason that the distillery may eventually add additional products to its core range. I know they have considered adding an age-statement product in the past, but they are yet to have the stock to support one reliably.
I love the additional meatiness in the Sainag with its bright fruits and more subtle citrus. It is a beautiful introduction to peat, whose smokey accents and softer brine allow the spotlight to shine a bit brighter on rich, syrupy fruits.
Whisky Details: Kilchoman Fino Sherry Cask 2023 Edition, 50%
Nose: Butterscotch and caramel— almost praline at times, fudge and chocolate, sweet and rich, more mild maritime and heather, candied Brazil nuts.
Palate: Medium-bodied, dried fruits and Christmas cake with chopped almonds, chimney smoke, herbal and slightly medicinal smoke, peppercorns, mellow black licorice and resin, semi-sweet smoke with more gentle salted smoked caramel.
Finish: Medium length and rich with toasted herbs, salted lemon peel, and caramel.
Score: 6-7
Mental Image: Treasure of the Butterscotch Sea
Narrative & Notes: The aroma of this one had me a bit worried; it was so saccharine with thick butterscotch and caramel. Hints of heather and salt paired with nuts to give at least some variation, but it was otherwise relatively straightforward and sweet. My fear that the cask had obliterated the spirit was unfounded, as the palate came off remarkably balanced between dried fruits, smoke, herbs, and spice. It was sweet but never cloying as the salt, smoke, and wood resins always pulled it back from the edge. The finish was excellent and featured some classic Kilchoman citrus and medicinal herbs. Overall, a delightful clash between cask and malt in which the winner was surely everyone who got to drink it.
Whisky Details: Kilchoman Machir Bay Cask Strength, 58.3%
Nose: Charred lemon and herbs, slightly creamy, bergamot and amber, stone and cedar wood chips, earth and hints of rubber goods.
Palate: Medium-bodied, syrupy lemon and smoke, lemon grass and heather, brine, salted lemon peel, subtle earth and dried grass, mellow cream with licorice and vanilla, grassier toward the end.
Finish: Medium length with citrus, citrus pith, salt, hints of licorice and vanilla.
Score: 7
Mental Image: Spring Break Beach Getaway
Narrative & Notes: II loved this— I want this all the time instead of the regular Machir Bay. Clearly, that core product has a place and purpose, but I also want this in the core lineup. I enjoyed the intensity of Machir Bay at cask strength and how different flavor notes seemed to come to the fore (though there is some batch variation in Machir Bay, so some of that could have been due to the different batches.) I know the rubber note will strike some as odd, but something about this on the nose strongly reminded me of rubber nipples or O-rings— not really an unpleasant rubber, but a slightly sweet, almost slightly plasticky quality.
Overall, a lovely affair that showcased the maritime and citrusy profile Kilchoman identifies as part of their core. I found some beautiful variations and evolution on the palate as grass and herbs entered the picture at different points.
