Reviews of scotch and world whiskies by a history professor, his wife, bird, and three cats.

Craigduff-Glen Keith 45 Year (1973), Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary

Craigduff-Glen Keith 45 Year (1973), Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary

Whisky: Craigduff-Glen Keith 45 Year (1973), Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 45.4%

Cask: Refill Sherry Butt

Age: 45 Years (Distilled 4 April 1973, Bottled 13 June 2018)


Nose: Wax, cream, tropical fruits, mellow florals, sandalwood, leather, burning candle wicks, yuzu, mint.

Palate: Medium-bodied, waxy, oily, overripe fruits, cream, pineapple, machine oil, burning wicks, more herbal at the end with jasmine, yuzu, achiote.

Finish: Very long and waxy, occasionally creamy, with dried fruit, a kiss of salt, and burning candle wicks.


Score: 10

Mental Image: The Divine Candlemaker

Narrative & Notes: The aroma was complex and sublime— waxy, creamy, and loaded with sweet dried tropical fruits and floral petals. The holy bath bomb of ultimate relaxation appeared like a mirage between oily leather, sandalwood, and burning candles. Yuzu, mint, and chrysanthemum appeared like herbal tisanes for the bath experience. Medium-bodied and intensely waxy and oily, the flavor profile was rich and varied with overripe nectarines, cream, sweet butter, and pineapple rings. In the background were hints of machine oil between candle wax and burning wicks. Toward the end, a more subtle herbal character emerged with jasmine, yuzu, and achiote seed. The finish was very long and waxy, occasionally creamy, with dried fruit, a kiss of salt, and burning candle wicks.

Sublime and divine, this was a phenomenal whisky and presumably the final cask of Craigduff anywhere. I wrote about the mysterious origins of Craigduff last year; the short of it is that Chivas and Signatory disagree over where the malt was distilled— but they do agree that it was an experimental batch done in 1973 in which concentrated heavily peated water was added to the wash still. I thought the previous bottle I tried, a comparatively young 33 year, was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, yet here I am again.

I adored this whisky’s waxy and faintly floral elements; I do not think anything else has entirely captured the image of a soaking tub surrounded by lit candles. I do not know if all Glencraig was like this, but the two I tried were intensely waxy and crescendoed beautifully after just a few sips. These really are the kind of bottles that ruin you for everything else and leave an indelible memory.

Overall, spectacular. I enjoyed this during a recent stopover at LMDW’s Singapore outpost. The staff there was as excellent as ever; friendly and ready to talk whisky. They humored me and allowed me to share the legend of Craigduff, which came up after one of them was outed as a fellow fan of Glen Keith. We all tried a little dram of the curious whisky, and the missus ranked it as the dram of the evening— I agree!

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