Glen Grant 17 year (2004), SMWS 9.235 “The proof is in the finish”
Whisky: Glen Grant 17 year (2004), SMWS 9.235 “The proof is in the finish”
Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside
ABV: 55.8%
Cask: Bourbon Hogshead (15Y), FF Spanish Oak Oloroso Hogshead
Age: 17 Years (Distilled 2 March 2004)
Nose: Musty, fruity, and earthy with cherries, berries, balsamic, vinyl, citrus.
Palate: Medium-bodied, oily, tangy fruits, lychee in syrup, white nectarine, honey, mandarin orange, dark chocolate and earth, kiss of salt.
Finish: Medium to long with orange, dried grass, and a kiss of salt.
Score: 7-8
Mental Image: Grass Stains and Orange Slices
Narrative & Notes: The aroma was musty, fruity, and earthy, beginning with the caramelized brown sugars and Grand Marnier of a cherries jubilee before shifting toward tangy berries under balsamic glaze. Memories of plastic army men in the backyard struck as earth, and a strong vinyl note developed before the aroma of lemonade called me home. The sharp citrus of calamansi appeared out of the lemonade with mandarins and sweet clementines. Medium-bodied, the palate had a lovely oily quality with loads of tangy, almost effervescent fruits. Lychees in syrup, hints of pineapple, and ripe, juicy nectarines arrived with honey, citrus, and crates of ripe mandarins. An undercurrent of dark chocolate or earth pulled me up from sweet orange long enough for a kiss of salt to hit with a tangy orange marmalade. The finish was medium to long with orange, dried grass, and a kiss of salt.
As soon as that note, which struck me as new plastic army men, but others suggested could more pleasantly be called vinyl, arrived, I knew I would love this whisky. I had more than many plastic army men growing up, and I always wanted to pick up a few more any time my mother took me someplace that might be selling them by the bag full. I lost countless soldiers in the backyard grass and the mud/dirt pit I maintained as a battlefield. The lawn mower was relentless for any figures I forgot, but even a battle-damaged toy could play a role.
Beyond nostalgia, I was shocked that this was an oloroso cask and not sauternes with all of the orange and mandarin notes spread across the nose and palate. The flavors were all well-integrated, and there was a nice balance between sweet fruits, earth, and chocolate. Occasionally a touch of spirit popped up on the back end with some menthol, but nothing that overly detracted from the overall experience. Though my wife has not yet had a chance to sample this delight, I have some faith she will anoint it another dram well-suited for soaking in the bath.
