Whisky: Bowmore 20 Year, David Simson Distillery Exclusive

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 50.7%

Cask: Oloroso and PX Sherry

Age: 20 Years (Bottled 2020)

Nose: Leather, balsamic, and incense. Smokey incense and burned molasses filled the air with padded leather, lacquered wood, and an underlying earthiness. Mineral-stone notes of water dripping from limestone stalactites: incense and stone notes brought to mind musty Cathedral crypts with dried wood and burning candles. Candied pecans and balsamic vinegar teased in the background.

Palate: Medium-bodied and unctuous with leather, preserved fruits, and wood. A firm palate gripping hug of dry, earthy dark chocolate, dank wood, burning candles, and sweet incense. The dram whisked me off to sail with leather-clad smugglers by oil lamp light—a woody finish with sandalwood and lacquered chests full of dried fruits and li hing mui. Water brought out more red fruits, strawberry especially, with creamy vanilla.

Finish: Lingering lacquered wood with tobacco and dried figs.

Score: 8

Mental Image: Coastal Smugglers and Grave Robbers

Notes:  A stunning Bowmore, this dram reminded me just how excellent the distillery can be, especially compared to some of the lackluster parts of their core lineup. Our local whisky group poured this during a virtual mystery peated whisky tasting, and it tied for second best out of four drams. Most people ranked it second or third, though there were a couple of first-place votes. The dram was classy and sophisticated— even blind most participants correctly guessed it was the most expensive of the lineup.

I loved the different directions that leather, wood, and burning candles took this dram. Dried fruits, incense, and chocolate appeared at different turns, while an underlying minerality and mellow brine linked a well-structured network of flavor notes. My mind raced between Cathedral crypts, leather everything, and coastal smugglers. Excellent at cask strength; I thought water opened up a new experience as it pulled out some delicious and distinct fresh fruits and vanilla bean ice cream.

Overall, an excellent Bowmore with an intensely sherried profile that somehow balanced with the smokey malt rather than burying it.  I compare it favorably to the 26-Year French Oak from the Vinter’s Trilogy, though this had more depth.  It was almost equal to the 1997 Distillery Manager’s Selection, my other experience with a ridiculously deep, complex, and expensive Bowmore. However, that dram had a touch heftier palate with a more intense savory quality. This was so close to equalling that Manager’s Selection that I have no problem saying it was one of the top three or four Bowmore I have ever had. Truly a treat and a superb blind-tasting surprise!