Reviews of scotch and world whiskies by a history professor, his wife, bird, and three cats.

Ardmore 23 Year SMWS 66.195 “If these walls could talk!”

Ardmore 23 Year SMWS 66.195 “If these walls could talk!”

Whisky: Ardmore 23 Year SMWS 66.195 “If these walls could talk!”

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 48.7%

Cask: Bourbon Hogshead (21Y), First Fill STR Oloroso Barrique (2Y)

Age: 23 Years (Distilled 23 Oct. 1997)

Nose:  Fruit, white chocolate, and malt. Sweet grapefruit Gushers wafted out ahead of a soft herbal tobacco wave. A picnic table of leftover treats; burnt brisket ends, dark chocolate, white chocolate chips, black iced tea, and caramel apples. Malty chocolate emerged behind the herbal tobacco— tasters debated whether it was Nesquick or Ovaltine? A slight sour tang brought to mind misadventures in crab apple eating.

Palate: Medium-bodied with punchy herbal, tobacco, and chocolate notes. The funk arrived with herbal notes of hops, skunky beer, and dank weed brownies. The herbal quality of the dram dominated the initial experience and varied between IPAs, wet tobacco, and marijuana-infused dark chocolate pastries. With time, a clear structure emerged as the dram transitioned from an initial sweet funk to brine to a slightly sour funky finish. A mellow chalkiness appeared at the end with notes of an excellent red wine forgotten and nearly turned to vinegar.

Finish:  Lingering notes of chocolate, grape, and raw almond slivers.


Score: 6

Mental Image: IPA Festival Clean Up Crew


Notes:  We poured this at a recent local tasting, and, surprisingly, it was the least liked of the evening. After a stellar experience with its sister cask 66.197 ( “Let the world fall apart”), we all had high hopes for the dram. That prior Ardmore had a richer and punchier layer of smoke that enveloped a sweet spicy-meaty profile, likely due to a tighter wood grain structure, assemblage, or warehouse storage. Notably, its abv. stayed a bit higher (53.3%). The two whiskies were finished in reasonably different casks— whereas this matured in a first-fill barrique, its sister was finished in a refill Spanish oak oloroso hogshead. I typically prefer refill casks, and I thought in this instance it resulted in a much more balanced and well-integrated set of flavors.

This whisky was fascinating, a great conversation piece for a tasting, but the strong herbal flavors and “beer skunk” toward the finish were turn-offs for me. The herbal quality reminded me of a Benrinnes I reviewed recently, which also had a strong IPA and marijuana notes. Even though I was not a fan, I love how a strange whisky like this can get people talking. I am a big proponent of having some interesting whiskies at hand to pour for guests.

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