Deanston 21 Year (1997), The Maltman
Whisky: Deanston 21 Year (1997), The Maltman
Country/Region: Scotland/Highland
ABV: 55.6%
Cask: Oloroso Sherry Butt
Age: 21 Year (Distilled May 1997, Bottled July 2018)
Nose: Rich and savory with chocolate, dried dates, and leathery funk. Dark cacao mixed with rich sticky dates and a hint of sulfur; the aroma became noticeably woodier with time as notes of charred oak, and wood polish came into the mix. Balsamic vinegar with hints of pomegranate and strawberry became more prevalent after a few drops of water.
Palate: Full-bodied and weighty with fruit, leather, and wood notes. Almost floral initially before strawberry and pomegranate vinaigrettes came to mind with a subtle balsamic quality. Leathery and slightly funky— wet leather perhaps— with brown sugar and date wine notes on the mid-palate. Hints of grassy sweetness at the end with lacquered wood.
Finish: Lingering wood and brown sugar with subtle notes of stewed plum.
Score: 7
Mental Image: Pomegranate Balsamic Vinaigrette
Notes: While sherry bombs are not usually my jam, I love it when they have this kind of meaty depth. I also love balsamic notes in whisky, so this was a perfect pairing of my favorite sherry-driven notes. The dram was a bit odd at times— the nose was quite funky at first, especially with a sort of wet leather— but the oddities were still well-integrated, and the dram had a lovely transition between different layers of flavor.
A few drops of water opened up a fruitier side to the dram, and at a local tasting, the whisky paired beautifully with several food dishes. The food revealed a different side of the rich and complex whisky. I do not often do whisky and food pairings, but this was so winey that it worked as good as any full-bodied red.
Overall, while I thought it paired wonderfully with food, I really enjoyed it with just a few drops of water when I returned to it a few weeks later. As I said, sherry bombs are not typically my thing, but they can be exceptional when they have this kind of depth and structure. I wish this were not as tannic on the finish, but otherwise, it was a delightful dram.
