Weekend Briefs Dec. 2022: Christmas Tastings Part 2
Christmas and Holiday gatherings came back with a vengeance this year, and, being a bit of an introvert, I was ill-prepared for just how quickly the calendar can fill up with events and diners. Perhaps we are just eager to make up for a lost time before our lives become busy again and we lose the moment. What better way to share food and company again than with a whisky tasting?
I sampled the trilogy below during a whisky-centered holiday dinner; I tasted them before we sat down and dug into the delicious food. There were other bottles on the menu paired with the dinner, but I packed those away for future me to review at some point so I could concentrate on food and friends.
The trio below features not one but two Glenburgie. I love Glenburgie so much that I have multiple Glenburgie bottles I have never reviewed because I love sipping on them so much. I cannot bring myself to attempt a modicum of objectivity and analysis because they are just so good for relaxing with at the end of the day. I was elated when my buddy included a duo on the menu. While I appreciate mature Glenburgie, I really enjoy tucking into the malt when it is a bit younger and wilder, so the fact that these were both ten years was perfect.
Despite my appreciation for Glenburgie, it is not that common of a malt to encounter beyond releases from the odd independent bottler here and there. It is a prime Chivas workhorse distillery whose production supports the Ballantine's blend, the second best-selling blend in the world (though at only about half what Johnnie Walker does, according to the Malt Whisky Yearbook). Glen Keith is also an uncommon malt to encounter, even rarer than Glenburgie. The distillery is another Chivas workhorse, the centerpiece of the 100 Pipers blend. The distillery nearly met a sad end in the late nineties; it was mothballed from 1999 to 2013. Unlike some of its peers, RIP Imperial, Glen Keith was refurbished and returned to production. This was my first chance to taste the spirit produced after the rebirth of the distillery, and I liked what I found.
On to the whisky!
Whisky Details: Glenburgie 10 Year (2011) 1st Fill Bourbon Barrels 47.5%, Morrison Distillers Càrn Mòr
Nose: Fragrant and oily, bath time with Epsom salts and a floral bath bomb, subtle rose petals and lavender, citrus rinds, shea butter, and honey.
Palate: Medium-bodied, floral and slightly earthy, citrus curd, lime zest, mild cream, Epsom salt, hints of lavender and shea butter.
Finish: Medium-length, slightly drying, lemon peel gummies, a kiss of salt.
Score: 6
Narrative & Notes: A well-executed young Glenburgie stuffed with all of the beautiful, if occasionally funk, floral, earth, and fruit notes that make this my favorite bathtime distillery. I thought the flavors had a lot in common with some of my favorite SMWS bottles, and I kept thinking how fitting the bottle name “Cleopatra’s Bubble Bath” would be for this bottle (SMWS used a very similar name for a Glen Grant, another great bathtime distillery). The mouthfeel was a tad light, likely due to the reduced abv., but the flavors had good intensity, and the finish was pleasant. I could see how some might interpret some of the floral notes, especially the subtle lavender, as a bit soapy when combined with the mild creaminess, so this might not be for everyone.
Though I poured and sampled this before we sat for dinner, my wife tried it later in the evening and thought it paired perfectly with tiramisu.
Whisky Details: Glenburgie 10 Year (2011) PX Sherry Hogsheads 47.5%, Morrison Distillers Càrn Mòr
Nose: Sherry-forward, sweet summer berries in sugar syrup, subtle cinnamon and spice, ripe plums and black cherries, dry almond biscuits.
Palate: Medium-bodied, bright and sweet, stewed fruits, herbal tea, a kiss of salt, cherry liqueurs or maybe an adult Shirley Temple, old construction paper, musty toward the end with a spirited prickle and tingling peppery spice.
Finish: Medium to short and mildly drying, dried fruits, paper, and mellow leather.
Score: 4-5
Narrative & Notes: A lovely young, heavily sherried Glenburgie, and one that is sure to delight fans of fruity malts with sweet sherry maturations. In general, the whisky had a well-balanced sweetness; despite being quite saccharine, it never felt cloying sweet. It retained an intriguing transition from bright summer fruits to musty papers, peppers, and leathery dried fruit. I found this a bit cask heavy for my taste, and I regretted not attempting to mix this half-half with the ex-bourbon Glenburgie to calm the wine influence. A few drops of water helped dull some of the pepper and spirited prickle at the end but left the dram feeling sweeter, crossing over a tad into cloying territory. Overall, not something I would ever order, though I might accept a dram if someone were offering.
Whisky Details: Glen Keith 8 Year (2013) Oloroso Sherry Finish 47.5%, Morrison Distillers Càrn Mòr
Nose: Berries and herbs with sugary syrup, hints of musty leather, dried dates, caramel and fudge over vanilla bean ice cream, hints of puff pastry and marzipan.
Palate: Medium-bodied and syrupy, even velvet, big red fruits, apples, licorice, slightly metallic and mineral heavy, subtle herbs and earthy autumn foliage toward the end, a bit spirited and peppery.
Finish: Medium-length with herbal tobacco, autumn leaves, and hints of red fruit.
Score: 6-7
Narrative & Notes: I was apprehensive of this malt— young, finished in sherry, and my friend who hosted the tasting relayed at the outset that he thought this was the biggest disappointment of the bottles he had selected. It also turns out he does not like five spice, mala, or Sichuan peppercorn in any dish; honestly, you never know a person. So no wonder I thought this young Glen Keith was delightful and well-balanced between the herbal-earthy young malt and the fruity influence of the cask. The flavors were well-integrated and transitioned nicely between distinct layers, each lending itself to an ice cream Sunday buffet on the nose or autumn on the palate, though it would have been nice to see those connected a bit more. Despite the diluted abv, the mouthfeel was velvety and syrupy, the spirit had a lovely weight that spread evenly across the palate, and the finish was pleasant and varied. Glen Keith was a new distillery for me in 2022, and I experienced some ups and downs with different bottles. With drams like this, my eye will remain locked on Glen Keith for 2023.
