Port Ellen 35 Year (1982), Signatory Vintage
Whisky : Port Ellen 35 Year (1982), Signatory Vintage
Country/Region : Scotland/Islay
ABV : 55.1%
Cask : Refill Sherry Butt
Age : 35 Years (Distilled 2 Sept. 1982, Bottled 31 July 2018)
Nose : Seafood grill, ocean air, and citrus fruits. A barbecue at the beach with smoke off a wood fired grill and meaty-mineral notes of grilled oysters and shellfish. Surprisingly smokey with diesel fumes and cigars on the deck of a fishing tour boat along with the briny hint of shrimp and bait buckets. Yuzu and sweet citrus fruits contrasted with the salty brine.
Palate : Medium bodied with a mild waxiness and notes of citrus, sea, and herbal tobacco. Subtle sweetness of yuzu and citrus fruits along with red bean pastries, floral vanilla, and back sugar buns. Herbal, almost hoppy, twang and tobacco gave way to impressions of the beach: grilled shellfish, sea shells, sand-dollars, and all manner of beachy collectibles.
Finish : Lingering salt, smoke, and subtle vanilla
Score : 8
Mental Image : Beach Treasures
Notes : I was astounded at just how smokey this dram remained after 35 years in the cask. This felt barely tamed by time. I loved the varied impressions of maritime barbecues and beach vacations that came to mind as I sipped this. I immediately recalled a bucket I kept as a child full of all manner of sea shells, sand dollars, drift wood— the sorts of interesting objects I picked up off the beach. I thought of them as treasures and added a little bit to my collection every year. Compared to whisky, it was more affordable hobby.
This was one of just a handful of drams I have had that were distilled before I was born. I saved this for quite a while for special occasion. Originally I intended to try it on New Years, but then we ate some fragrant garlic dishes and I decided it was better to hold off until my palate was clear. I waited a few months more and finally poured it for my birthday. I did a follow-up tasting with my wife during which we did a side by side with a 26 Year Port Ellen also by Signatory Vintage and the Johnnie Walker Ghost and Rare Port Ellen edition. The wife picked this as her favorite of the lot by some margin, though I remain pretty torn between this and the 26 Year. They were both unicorn drams and I will not pretend that fact does not color my perception.
Overall, a special pour for a special occasion.
Image Credit : thewhiskybarrel.com
