Reviews of scotch and world whiskies by a history professor, his wife, bird, and three cats.

Auchentoshan 21 Year (1997), Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Barrel

Auchentoshan 21 Year (1997), Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Barrel

Whisky : Auchentoshan 21 Year (1997), Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Barrel

Country/Region : Scotland/Lowland

ABV : 52.4%

Cask : Refill Sherry Hogshead

Age : 21 Year (Distilled 22 Oct. 1997, Bottled 22 Oct. 2018)

Nose : Spice, tobacco, and wood.  Rummaging through antique spice chests and cigar boxes: cracked black pepper, aniseed, cinnamon, fenugreek, preserved orange and lemon rind, wood varnish, and stale tobacco.  Almost effervescent when hints of citrus and dried cherry came through.  Time to breath brought out hints of unsweetened chocolate.

Palate : Medium-bodied and drying with spice, cola, and wood. An overture of sweet old-fashioned sodas— cola, cherry, licorice, and ginger— paired with caramel and bitter orange notes. A pronounced astringency took hold as black pepper, cinnamon and unsweetened cocoa powder appeared. Slightly bitter notes of oak, walnut, and cacao nibs near the end.  

Finish : Lingering dryness with notes of cocoa powder and pepper.


Score : 4

Mental Image : Flat Cola


Notes : Unique is not an adjective that naturally takes modifiers. It is absolute, a thing is unique, or it is not. Yet, we often use the word to denote not the singularity of a thing but its unusual character. So I hope I can be forgiven for saying that this Auchentoshan was incredibly unique and unlike any I have ever tried.

I initially expected to encounter a sherry monster, but as the dram settled, it was clear from the aroma that the dram was full of wood and spice. I noticed more tobacco on the nose during subsequent tastings and cherry cola on the palate. While there were moments when citrus or dried fruit appeared, the dram was quite dry, lacking sweetness, which amplified the astringency on the back end and the finish. I kept expecting sweeter fruits or caramel to take hold, but they faded swiftly after a quick hello. The dram was not bitter per se, but— and this is not something I often say— I wish this were a bit sweeter and syrupier.

Overall, an unusual and unexpected Auchentoshan. It was fascinating, though not something I can ever picture myself reaching for off the shelf. I do, however, have a soft spot for interesting bottles that make for good conversation pieces, and I love cola notes, so this was on the precipice of being something quite lovely in my book; it was just a tad too dry and spirited.

Image Credit: Whiskybase

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