Reviews of scotch and world whiskies by a history professor, his wife, bird, and three cats.

Allt-A-Bhainne 7 Year SMWS 108.14 “An enjoyable curiosity”

Allt-A-Bhainne 7 Year SMWS 108.14 “An enjoyable curiosity”

Whisky : Allt-A-Bhainne 7 Year SMWS 108.14 “An enjoyable curiosity”

Country/Region : Scotland/Speyside

ABV : 66.2%

Cask : 2nd Fill Ex-Bourbon Barrel

Age : 7 Years (Distilled 1 November 2011)

Nose : Opens with a bit creamy peanut butter that turns faintly chemical and not dissimilar to roach bait.  It is a freshly placed Combat roach trap or maybe a Hoy-Hoy.  It is not unpleasant— and roaches sure seem to enjoy it.  A bit of musty vinegar, faint herbal notes, and a dash of lemon grass.  Hints of meatiness and faint smoke play at the edges of perception.

Palate :  Herbaceous with a sweet meaty quality.  It is roasted pork seasoned with Chinese five spice, burnt marshmallows, melting s’mores, and a bit of fish sauce.  Burning rotten vegetation blows over along with the sweet scent of pond scum, Lily pads, and tadpoles.  Picnic beside an algae covered pond.

Finish : Lingering lemon or burnt lemon peel with some sun baked grassy hay bale at the end.


Score : 7

Mental Image : Hoyhoy Roach Trap.

Something Better : Port Charlotte First Cut Fèis Ìle 2007 (more intense decay and pond scum) 

Something Similar : Glen Scotia 10Y SMWS 93.98/other young Glen Scotia (similar Chinese five spice)

Something Worse : Jura Superstition (more fish sauce, similar spices, less finish)


Notes :  “Would go well with pho or Vietnamese food.”  For whatever reason most of the food pairings that have come up at our tastings usually involve pairing a scotch, often peated, with Vietnamese food.  Something about the vinegar notes present in some whiskies give the impression that they might help cut through beef broth or compliment a sweet fish sauce.  I do not do a whole lot of intentional whisky and food pairings aside from the obvious salty or coastal paired with a funky creamy cheese, or a smokey peat heavy dram with a rich beef stew.

I never did get around to this pairing.  It was too good to save for such an occasion.  I have never found the smell of roach traps to be all that appetizing, but after this, I may instinctively start craving whisky.  Something about the aroma strikes the sense in such a way to resemble roach bait.  If I left a dram out on the counter would I find some drunk roaches?

I am not in the mood to share and find out.  This Allt-a-Bhainne showed remarkable complexity for just 7 years.  Its flavors were distinct and well rounded, it drank incredibly smoothly without a drop of water— to the point that I almost forget each time I tasted it to add a few drops and see what happened.  It has lovely layers of rotting vegetation, herbs, algae, and maybe a bit of mold.  It is not quite the funk level that Bruichladdich achieves with some Port Charlottes, but it is in the same ballpark and therefore right up my alley. 

Allt-A-Bhainne 23 Year; Jack Wieber’s Fighting Fish

Allt-A-Bhainne 23 Year; Jack Wieber’s Fighting Fish

Caol Ila 5 Year; The Maltman

Caol Ila 5 Year; The Maltman