The label of this 1996 Ben Nevis from the independent bottler Thompson Brothers honors Masataka Taketsuru, the founder of Yoichi Distillery and Nikka, who have owned Ben Nevis distillery since 1989. That relationship has not been without controversy, or maybe consternation, as much of its production has at various times gone to Japan to support Nikka’s products. They even used Ben Nevis to do primary wash distillation for some products which were then distilled on spirit stills in Japan— an odd quirk for some of the early Nikka Coffey Malt especially. Despite the misgivings about Nikka’s plans for Ben Nevis, or lack of plans or consistent effort to develop it as a single malt brand, the proliferation of casks among independent bottlers has surely created a market.

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Whisky: Ben Nevis 28 Year (1996), Thompson Brothers Cask 1166

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 47.8%

Cask: Refill Sherry Butt

Age: 28 Years (Distilled 1996, Bottled Oct. 2024)

Notes: Early on a tropical morning— rattan and wooden furniture, dew and musty tropical foliage, woody stone fruit pits, salty sand and minerals on the beach, and plenty of freshly cut fruit.  Pears, peaches, and guavas appeared with pineapple and tangerines, a soft fresh fruit cup for breakfast as the sun rose. Medium to light-bodied and a touch oily on the palate, the flavors began with fruits and faded toward the beach on a morning with a touch of musty car shop, menthol, and medicinal patches. Popsicle sticks and sea shells provided a transition to woody, mineral, and vaguely fruity notions at the end. The finish was medium to long with fruits, sand, and a bit of hot car in the summer.

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Score: 8-9 (89)

Mental Image: Tropical Resort Life

Conclusion: Fantastic— this was fruity, tropical, and had a pleasantly mustiness on the palate that provided a downright old fashioned edge to the flavors. Everything was soft and balanced with a gradual evolution on the nose, and an immediate bright pop of the flavor on the palate. It was slightly heavier and less austere than other 1996 Ben Nevis of similar age. However, it was on the lighter side and felt lighter each time I poured it so that my scored came down just a bit from the first visit to the last. Overall, a dram suited to dawn, dusk, and quiet moments— otherwise it may easily get drowned out.