This 1996 Ben Nevis was bottled by Berry Bros & Rudd, a wine merchant who first began business in the 1690s and made strong inroads into the whisky industry with their Cutty Sark blended Scots whisky in the 1920s. They have long dabbled with independent bottling, but their modern labels and products really began in the 2000s. This particular cask was bottled for Royal Mile Whiskies, an online and physical retailer in Edinburgh and St. Andrews.

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Whisky: Ben Nevis 24 Year (1996), Berry Bros & Rudd Cask 1196 for Royal Mile Whiskies

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 52.1%

Cask: Refill Sherry Butt

Age: 24 Years (Distilled 1996, Bottled 2020)

Notes: Soft and citrusy with lemon granita and calamansi tarts— it was all refreshing citrus with a bit of cream and sugar to mellow any bite. Austere and reserved beyond the initial citrus, with shy white flowers, cooked sugars, butter, and white oak. Medium-bodied and a touch waxy on the palate, the flavors initially popped with bright, sweet citrus then transitioned to slightly bitter citrus pith and oak. Lemon and calamansi burst onto the scene with some caramel and buttery pastry dough; powdered sugar donuts and mochi waffles appeared as the citrus faded, with more bitter pith, over-steeped tea, and peppery oak toward the end. The finish was very long and a touch peppery, waxy, and bitter with citrus rind and subtle hints of the buttery sweet pastry crust of a lemon tart.

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Score: 6-7 (80)

Mental Image: Chewing on Sugar Cane

Conclusion: Refreshing and light, the cask felt a bit tired and the malt did not quite strike me as “feeling” almost a quarter century old. The whisky was altogether austere and reserved, though a few drops of water opened some of the flavors up nicely— though at the cost of some of waxiness on the palate. The bitterness on the backend felt like an artifact of a tired cask, but the finish was wonderfully long and I do not mind a bit of bitterness if it provides contrast to sweeter notes. Overall, this was pleasant and enjoyable, though maybe a touch lacking compared to some of the other 1996 Ben Nevis I poured.