In Independent Scotch, a short history of independent bottlers, David Stirk writes that the prevalence of “seams” of casks from a particular year or period creates the impression of desirable or golden vintages for distilleries. He observes this most strikingly with 1967 Ardbeg or 1973 Glengoyne and argues that it is simply the existence of casks from those years, and the lack from other years, that creates the notion of those as golden years. They are overrepresented and therefore attract more attention.

We might extend this observation to more recent cask lots, or “seams”; see for example the proliferation of June 1995 Glenburgie, or 1996 Ben Nevis, which came into the hands of independent bottlers after changes to product lines or market strategies at the controlling conglomerates. This may well apply to 1998 Laphroaig, which attracted greater attention once the casks were well over 20 years— though this does also coincide with a booming market. There have been no shortage of these releases from bottlers such as SMWS, and they have been some of my favorites. 

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Whisky: Laphroaig 26 Year (1998), Whiskyland Chapter 10

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 54.2%

Cask: Refill Barrel, Refill Sherry Hogshead

Age: 26 Years (Distilled 1998, Bottled 2025)

Notes: Soft peated malt with a kiss of sherry— this was exactly what you expect: maritime brine, wispy smoke, charred wood, dried fruits, smoked salmon, and the relaxing mineral water, cedar, and incense in a private onsen. Cigarettes and ash trays lingered further in, like taking a quick drag on a chilly autumn night with the sweetness of dried vegetation and wispy chimney smoke in the air. Medium-bodied and oily on the palate, the flavors were similar, beginning with the cigarettes, ashtrays, and a touch of funky fermentation, before the onsen and ocean vibes took over the senses. Wood, brine, mineral water, misty forest, and wispy smoke led to more fruits at the end, strawberries with balsamic, dried papaya, and a bit of mountain apple (also known as java apple).  The finish was long and drying with a light peppery bite, dried fruits, and wispy smoke.

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Score: 8-9 (90)

Mental Image: Private Onsen for an Autumn’s Dawn

Conclusion: This was fabulous. Constantly evolving in the vapors or on my tongue, the flavors were constantly shifting between old ryokan and autumn. The peat was relatively soft and mature, while the sherry cask elevated some of the fruitier aspects of the malt. It could be peppery and slightly acrid at times, but those elements were soft and familiar rather than anything harsh. Overall, a whisky for lounging and thinking— drinkable enough that a glass can disappear quickly, but best enjoyed slowly.