The Laphroaig journey continues, today’s stop is another SMWS bottle, but this time from the lot of 1998 casks that the Society has bottled. Those Laphroaig have been some of their most popular, though the prices on them have gotten pretty hefty. This particular whisky was finished in a first fill oloroso barrique; which is often a good sign for me as the larger format cask tends to have a more restrained influence on the whisky. More head space and less wood contact allow more subtle flavors to emerge so that the sherry cask never dominates the whisky. I have enjoyed several of the sibling casks that received similar treatments, so my expectations are high!

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Whisky: Laphroaig 23 Year (1998), SMWS 29.286 “Château du Peatreek”

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 55.3%

Cask: Bourbon Hogshead, First Fill Oloroso Barrique

Age: 23 Years (Distilled 13 May 1998)

Notes: Burning incense, wispy smoke, and lacquered wood— like stepping into an old cathedral after mass, or the great room of an old castle. Musty tapestries and fabric appeared with vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and rich fruits: mulled wine to drive away the cold with a few dried dates and prunes in honey. Leather and earth sat further in with a bit of calomel and medicinal ointments. Medium-bodied and slightly waxy, the flavors were similar with concentrated fruits and slightly acrid smoke, less baking or mulling spice, and more charred wood and slightly burnt sugars. Plenty of lacquered wood and leather remained with more subtle incense so that the image of the cathedral held fast. The finish was slightly bitter and acrid as burnt sugars lingered with a kiss of salt and concentrated fruit notes, something akin to fortified wine.

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Score: 8 (88)

Mental Image: Touring the Castle Dungeons

Conclusion: The aroma was fabulous and put this dram well on its way to being a 10/10 for me.  The palate was a touch weaker as the intensity of different flavor elements was in constant flux. As a result, it felt more like a duel between the smoky and slight acrid malt and the sweeter fruits of the wine cask than a harmonious unity. Unfortunately, some of the caramel elements of the nose appeared a bit burnt and bitter on the palate, so that the finish was always a bit of a let down at the end with bitterness chasing concentrated rich fruits. There was still a lot to love here, and I can get past a certain level of bitterness, but that pulled this back from perfection to simply being excellent.  Overall, a wonderful whisky— almost heaven.