Trying something new is one of the most fun things to do during a tasting, and boy did I have my pick during a recent weekend get-together. The following four whiskies are all either styles or distilleries I have never reviewed before.
First up are a pair of Rhinns from Bruichladdich. Rhinns was a style that, to my knowledge, was only produced in 2011. It is described as a medium-peated whisky produced by vatting Bruichladdich and Port Charlotte new make (with a 1/3 to 2/3 ratio). It is a very uncommon style to encounter, even less so than Lochindaal and these are the few two I have had a chance to review.
The other two whiskies are peated malts from new wave distilleries in Japan: the very scotch-like Akkeshi, which sits on the far edge of Hokkaido, and Saburomaru. Akkeshi was familiar to me; I tried several of their preview releases and loved the blended malt they produced with Mars Tsunuki. Saburomaru was completely new to me, and I will definitely be on the look out for more.
Bruichladdich Rhinns 13 Year (2011), Dramfool Cask R11/281-2
NOTES: Sweet, almost candied at times, with powdered sugar and grilled bananas. With time more characteristic barnyard aromas took shape with old musty hay and hints of dingleberries or matted hair/fur (honestly it was a bit stinky at times, and not in a way I enjoyed). Medium-bodied, the flavor profile featured cigarette ash trays and brine hedging into lemon-scented cleaning products. Menthol lingered with mentholated tobacco as more refined sugars, vanilla cream pie, and donuts took shape in the smoking section of a diner. The finish was medium-length and a touch bitter sweet with powdered sugar, vanilla, and charred grass.
SCORE: 5 (74)
IMAGE: Lost Episode of Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives
THOUGHTS: Not to my taste. I thought this was more interesting than good, and sometimes rather incoherent. The flavor combinations felt unique and unusual, but not all that complementary as acrid, bitter, sweet, and creamy notions all vied for attention. The aroma was certainly a journey, with a stink to it that reminded me of dingleberries on a yak’s back end… not the most pleasant memory. I will note that no one else found it to be quite that level— though most ranked this at the bottom of the Rhinns pile for the night (I reviewed two here, the other two were from The Single Cask).
Bruichladdich Rhinns 13 Year (2011), Thompson Brothers
NOTES: Ahh the old petting zoo— animals, hay, and earth all appeared with a kiss of salt; an aquarium petting zoo maybe? Starchy and slightly creamy with wispy smoke that turned to fresh linens and dehydrated lemons as the petting zoo faded. Medium-bodied on the palate, an initial citrusy explosion offered up tart, and occasionally bitter, citrus: grapefruit sorbet and jabong (pomelo). A touch of char joined with burnt pizza crust and caramelized sweet tomato while dry grass and earth called back to the funkier elements on the aroma. The finish was long and continued earth and grass with a kiss of char.
SCORE: 7 (85)
IMAGE: Petting Zoo Pizzaria
THOUGHTS: Compared to the Dramfool Rhinns, I thought this was more complex, with flavors that were a more natural fit for one another which gave it more coherency. I am surprised that the whiskies felt all that different from another considering they were the same age, maturation, and distillation date. They shared some elements, and I found both to be slightly too sweet for what I wanted, yet considering how similar many of the Lochindaal have been to one another, even across distillation years, these were startlingly distinctive (and also rather different from the Single Cask releases). Overall, tasty and unique— having had four different Rhinns now I find my enthusiasm for them is cooler than Lochindaal and if I could have Bruichladdich resurrect one of these experimental styles, it would be the other.
Akkeshi 5 Year (2020) Cask BE-215 for Aloha Whisky
NOTES: Maritime and smokey, I imagined scorched rice and oily mackerel enjoyed with some second hand cigarette smoke. Further in were more subtle notions of leather, charred wood, and a bit of plastic. Medium-bodied and peppery the flavor profile offered more fruits that I expected as grilled pineapple appeared from caramelized sugars, citrus, and ash. Spirited and youthful, the whisky was a touch hot toward the end as citrus and ash lingered as charred lemons and an old grill bed. The finish was medium to short with more fruits and ash.
SCORE: 6 (78)
IMAGE: Fairy Bridge from Islay to Hokkaido
THOUGHTS: Akkeshi produces a peated malt that would be at home amongst any lineup of Islay mainstays. The profile reminded me of Laphroaig and Talisker at different moments, especially the peppery and tropical qualities. The problem, such as it is, with most of the new wave Japanese distilleries is the cost of the whisky. The retail price often feels about twice what it should be if it were to hit a similar value-cost ration as comparable scotch. Akkeshi has been more elusive than most, with very few single casks or partner bottles coming out— though one can hope that changes in the future. Overall, tasty fare— I continue to count Akkeshi as a distillery of interest.
Akashi Double Distilleries: Eigashima x Saburomaru
NOTES: Butterscotch and candy corn provided a grab bag of cooked sugars, butter, and cream. Werther’s Original continued the butterscotch feast with homemade marshmallows. Medium-bodied on the palate with more butterscotch and a striking note of orange cheddar cheese. Dried fruit, grape jelly, and a touch of lunch meat left the impression of Lunchables and elementary school cafeterias. A kiss of smoke and camphor arrived toward the end with pepper and spirit to remind me that this contained peated malt in the blend. The finish was medium to long with dried fruits, jellies, and a kiss of smoke.
SCORE: 7 (80)
IMAGE: Elementary School Charcuterie
THOUGHTS: This was wild, and truthfully another that was more interesting than strictly good— but so interesting I would not mind another pour. This was the kind of bizarre and disjointed whisky that you never crave on a quiet Thursday night, but the second you have people over, you feel compelled to grab it and start pouring it. I cannot imagine ever craving this, except to get other people to drink it and pouring a little dram to join them on the journey. I have never had a whisky remind me so much of an orange processed cheddar cheese, possibly a Lunchable. I have had cheesy whiskies, but nothing like this. I was impressed at how well the spirit was integrated for what I assume was a fairly young duo of malts and the flavors were coherent, if not odd. Overall, a bizarre and wonderful dram— I would have this again.
Whiskery Turnip 
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