Whisky: Bunnahabhain 22 Year (1980), Dun Bheagan Cask 5899

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 58%

Cask: Hogshead

Age: 22 Years (Distilled 1980, Bottled 2003)

Nose: Dry, dusty earth and fallen leaves, stone fruits, dehydrated fruits, mellow petrichor and wispy smoke, a touch of feinty spirit.

Palate: Medium-bodied with bright, sweet, and sour citrus, orchard fruits, honey, medicinal herbs, and dried grass, spirited and feinty with a dank herbal quality at the end.

Finish: Medium-length with earth, pepper, and orchard fruit.

Score: 4-5 (72)

Mental Image: Medieval Prescription for Balancing the Humors

Narrative & Notes: Fallen autumn leaves, brown and decaying on the dry earth— the aroma was dusty and sweet with dueling notions of sweet decay and dried stone fruits.  Apricots and banana chips danced across dry grass, and a slight petrichor as wispy smoke and a bit of feinty spirit emerged. A faint maritime element lingered in the background with a touch of sour apples or vinegar. Medium-bodied with a sharp, sweet, and sour citrus or orchard fruit note— crab apples and lemons? A ration of verjuice given by a medieval doctor with a dollop of honey and thistle to cleanse the palate— it was almost effervescent with crisp, tart fruits, dried grass, and a musty, dank herbal quality.  Perhaps a bit feinty at times, like a spirit cut too deeply with hints of dank medicinal herbs.  The finish was medium-length with earth, pepper, and orchard fruits.

This was a wild ride— the aroma was fairly typical for an older Bunnahabhain with lovely autumnal vibes of earth and dried grass. It was not very maritime and had a slight feinty quality in the background, but otherwise standard-issue fare.  The palate, though, was the moment when the rollercoaster suddenly tips downward just enough to fly through the first dip— I felt my hair rush back as sweet and sour orchard fruits exploded across the palate. It took me a second to catch my breath, but verjuice? Over time, the feinty quality from the nose crept in, and I wondered if these off notes and tingle on the palate came from the cask or an unattended distillation run. The 80s were a different era.

Overall, far more interesting than good— I thought water helped balance things out and tame the sour quality, though it left the whisky far less interesting.  A conversation starter.

Image Credit: The Whisky Shop