Whisky: Caol Ila 25 Year (1989), Ian Macleodʻs Dun Bheagan Cask 4115

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 46%

Cask: Hogshead

Age: 25 Years (Distilled Nov. 1989, Bottled 2015)

Nose: Coastal with a touch of barbecued meat; wood and plasticine; hot glue; citrus; mentholated tobacco; musty attic; more fruit and medicinal herbs with time or water.

Palate: Medium to light-bodied, citrusy oil and tobacco, herbal with a mild hoppiness; wood and musty attics, hot glue and plasticine, mellow brine.

Finish: Long with a touch of peppery, wood, tobacco, and a return of those vaguely barbecued meats.

Score: 7+ (85)

Mental Image: Hobby Room Battlefield

Narrative & Notes: Slightly coastal with a touch of barbecued meat; otherwise, it was the aroma of opening an old modeling kit— wood, hot glue, and a touch of hard plastics. Citrusy wood oils and polish, old menthol cigarettes, and musty cardboard boxes— the hobby room of a model war game enthusiast. More fruit and musty medicinal herbs with time or a bit of water. Medium to light-bodied on the palate with citrusy oils, menthol cigarettes, and the mellow, hoppy herbal quality of a mild IPA over background oceanic brine. Wood arrived with the quality of a musty unfinished attic, then modeling glue and a touch of plasticine— I was still in the hobby room of a model war game enthusiast.  The finish was very long, with a touch of pepper joining wood, tobacco, and something meatier that never quite came fully forged.

It is hard to beat a mellow mature Caol Ila, though I reckon this flavor profile is less a guaranteed crowd pleasure than most. While I find some of the earlier 1980s Caol Ila cautiously emulates some of the best aspects of Port Ellen, perhaps anticipating future blending needs after the closer of Port Ellen, this one went off in the weeds a little bit. It had elements of the maritime, citrus, and herbal character of Caol Ila, but disappears into a musty unfinished attic space.

Overall, I enjoyed this malt's eccentricities, from modeling glue to plasticine. The various elements were generally well-structured, and I admired the impressively long finish after such a gentle mouthfeel. Anything that reminds me of models and war gaming miniatures gets a few bonus points.