Whisky: Caol Ila 23 Year (1997), Gordon and MacPhail Cask 12494

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 59.9%

Cask: First Fill Sherry Butt

Age: 23 Years (Distilled 25 Sept. 1997, Bottled 2 July 2021)

Nose: Rich with charred wood, barbecue smoke and meats, leather, tobacco, fragrant woods, dustballs, fudge.

Palate: Medium-bodied, spicy, lacquered wood, resinous, tobacco, leather and dark chocolate, charred meat and brownies.

Finish: Medium-length with chocolate, dates, and leather.

Score: 7 (82)

Mental Image: Cottager’s Capnomancy Side Hustle

Narrative & Notes: Refined and elegant, the aroma drifted from charred wood and barbecue to oiled leather and fragrant pipe tobacco, hinting at an old sandalwood chest. Lacquered wood and hardwood antiques collected in a past age appeared from their hiding places with dust balls, camphor, and resin. Charred meats and toasted nuts— a mixed plate of Texas barbecue and walnut fudge brownies. Medium-bodied with a cutting lacquered wood and resin that slowly opened to tingling spice, tobacco, and dehydrated lemons. Leather and bitter dark chocolate— a flourless cake at a fancy restaurant with leather padded booths and a licorice-coffee cordial. Charred meat and brownie edges pieces lingered at the end with drying tannic oak and pepper.

The aroma was resplendent with a good balance between meat and sweets. Though I was a bit wary coming into a Caol Ila that spent so long in a first fill sherry butt, the aroma was structured, rich, and refined.  The different notes and impressions were clear and never overly muddled or confused.  It was at the very edge of being comfortably woody. Unfortunately, the palate drifted across to the wrong side of the line, with loads of tight wood notes and spice dominating the experience. The palate was less balanced, and I found that a few drops of water amplified some of the bitter dark chocolate so that it spilled over into over-steeped tea and acrid tobacco.

Overall, a punchy affair that edged close to greatness.