A quick note before anything else. This week, four of my Penderyn reviews were done with industry samples provided free of charge and without any pesky strings attached; this message precedes each of those reviews. As ever, I am unsure if that led me to grade harder or easier, but I prefer ant entanglements to be upfront. For more, check out the ethics statement we use on Maltrunners.com.

Whisky: Penderyn 19 Year (2004), LMWD Ex-Libris Cask 22/2004

Country/Region: Wales

ABV: 56.6%

Cask: Bourbon

Age: 19 Years (Distilled 2004, Bottled 2023)

Nose: Woody and fruity with a side of tropical lychee and stone fruits, powder sugar and donuts, slightly metallic at times with a hint of bubble gum.

Palate: Medium-bodied, oaky, tinned fruits, stone fruits, white tea, resins, melted tropical fruit popsicles.

Finish: Long and drying with stone fruits, wood, and minerals.

Score: 7-8 (86)

Mental Image: Grandpa’s Vintage Juicy Fruit Gum Collection

Narrative & Notes: Juicy Fruit gum and antique teak wood furniture arrived with gentle notes of lychee in syrup, white nectarines, and powdered sugar donuts building in the background.  Fruity and woody with loads of slightly metallic tinned stone fruits in syrup. A touch of orange, mint, and bubblegum teased around the edges with white tea and aromatic woods. Medium-bodied with big, oaky tannins and a giant bowl filled with sweet tinned fruits— lychee, peaches, tangerines, and nectarines. Teak wood, white tea, and woody resins appeared as if enjoying an afternoon tea among cloistered antiques; a bit of water and the fruits turned to melted tropical popsicles in the summer. The finish was long and drying with stone fruits, wood, and mellow minerals.

This was in line with one of my favorite Penderyn, an incredible youngster from SMWS, featuring a similar bounty of syrupy tinned fruits.  That one had a bit more depth to those notes with further clarity and definition to the flavors, but this was cut from the same cloth. It had a woody backbone with plenty of aromatics and antiques, nothing like more raw notes of freshly milled lumber or sawdust.  I feared the finish might be a touch astringent and drying for my taste, but it was pleasant with just a bit of drying that felt more like mineral water or tea than a woody slap.

Overall, an impressive whisky and by far the oldest Penderyn I have tried.