Whisky: Bowmore 23 Year (1989) Port Cask Matured

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 50.8%

Cask: Port Cask

Age: 23 Years (Distilled 1989, Bottled 2013)

Nose: Sweet syrupy fruits over panna cotta, rich and indulgent, subtle balsamic, dirty shop rags in the background with new leather, stained wood, and tweed; more time brought out barbecue char, meat, and coffee grounds.

Palate: Medium-bodied, vibrant and rich, syrupy fruits with subtle cream and mellow smoke, coffee, and matchsticks; dirty shop rags and cedar wood with a touch of polished leather; sweet candied fruits with a touch of balsamic, roasted meat, and salt toward the end.

Finish: Long and lingering with subtle fruit, coffee, and oak.

Score: 8 (89)

Mental Image: Michelin Starred Ikea Foodcourt

Narrative & Notes: Rich, indulgent, and opulent, yet also balanced and harmonious, the aroma featured a whirlwind tour of dessert ideas from syrupy or candied fruits to panna cotta and a subtle balsamic glaze for a bowl of berries. Layers emerged like a delightful onion— figuratively of course, no onion notes— with dirty ship rags and something more industrial that slowly opened toward the impression of a well-appointed furniture store— all wood, leather, tweed, and fabrics. A bit of barbecue char, roasted meat, and coffee grounds provided a diversion and hinted at further depth.  The palate was much the same, with plenty of fruit, cream, coffee, and slightly dirty notes of matchsticks, shop rags, and cedar wood furniture.  The finish was long and mellow with fruit, coffee, and oak.

Balanced and well-structured, the flavors and experience felt as though it was conducted by a maestro with everything fitting together nicely. The notes were distinct and clear as they emerged for their solos or duets. The whisky was gentle, but I wish it had been a bit heavier— it was so light and pillowy across the palate that the rich flavors slipped away like silk. The finish was a touch woody for my taste, but really, that feels like a minor quibble when everything else was excellent.

Overall, it is hard to beat these twenty-something Bowmore.

Image Credit: The Whisky Exchange