Whisky: Laphroaig 20 Year (1995), SMWS 29.178 “Bee-smoker on a pebble beach”

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 55%

Cask: Refill Bourbon Barrel

Age: 20 Years (Distilled 4 April 1995)

Nose: Wispy smoke with pineapple, orange, beeswax, and heather; coastal and maritime, gentle, pine, subtle asphalt and tar.

Palate: Medium-bodied, oily and waxy, acrid smoke and asphalt gave way to brine, herbs, tropical fruit, and fruity caramelization; more herbs and hints of cream at the end.

Finish: Medium to long with tropical fruit, brine, and acrid grill smoke.

Score: 8+ (89)

Mental Image: Pickled Mango at the Beach Barbecue

Narrative & Notes: A gentle smoke fronted sweeter notions of pineapple, oranges, and hints of mango. Beeswax and cream sat further in with honey and a bed of dried grass and heather.  Coastal, but not aggressively so, the maritime quality was gentle with hints of pine and distant tar and asphalt. Medium-bodied, oily and waxy, with more acrid smoke and asphalt initially, with soft brine, camphor, and menthol following. Tropical fruits, oranges, and sweet caramelized fruits on the grill developed toward the end. Pickles, or pickled mangos, came to mind with the brine and herbs. Menthol and vanilla lingered in the background with hints of cream and heather.  The finish was medium to long with tropical fruits, brine, and acrid grill smoke.

Wow, it feels like it has been a while since I have had a mature Laphroaig with this many delicious tropical notes.  My wife got little of the asphalt or acrid quality I picked up, instead finding more cream and medicinal herbs.  We largely agreed on the fruits, though she thought everything moved more toward pickles. Indeed, a lot was happening here, and it is easy to see why we felt ourselves pulled in different directions as the flavors unfolded.

Overall, an excellent example of a mid-90s Laphroaig and the fruity turn that the spirit can sometimes take.  I cannot recall another example from the distillery that had this vaguely waxy quality— even if I think that was the element that struck my wife more as full-fat cream.  The flavors were well-balanced and integrated with a lovely structured transition between different components.