Japan Week continues with a turn to the runaway king of Japan's new wave of whisky producers. Chichibu has been a leader in the first generation of new distilleries, inspired a rabid devotion for its malts, and recently opened a second distillery near the first. With that in mind, we can imagine all the distilleries that have opened since 2018-2019 to be a second generation of the new wave that have, to varying degrees, followed the model set forth by Chichibu.

Whisky: Chichibu Single Malt for Seibu Department Store

Country/Region: Japan

ABV: 61%

Cask: Oak

Nose: Vanilla, custard, macadamia nuts, varnished wood, hints of tobacco and ashtray, burnt sandalwood incense, dry hay with hints of oregano and mint.

Palate: Full-bodied, thick and oily, grilled peaches, matcha, almond, cream, lacquered wood, old tobacco smoke, leather, wood, nuts, honey, hints of orange, spirited prickle.

Finish: Medium-length and tannic with citrus rind, wood, and subtle earth.

Score: 7-

Mental Image: Bring Your Child to Work Day c. 1980s

Narrative & Notes: The aroma brought to mind a spread of coffee accompaniments in an old conference room— tobacco smoke soaked into the walls and carpet, varnished wood, worn leather, sweet creamy vanilla custard, macadamia nuts, and hints of toasted almond pastry. A subtle sweet spice pulled the aroma closer to burnt sandalwood incense, dry autumn leaves, mint, hay bales, and hints of herbal oregano. Full-bodied, thick, and oily, the flavor profile was robust with grilled peaches, matcha and almond pastries, cheese danishes, and lacquered wood. The old conference returned with old tobacco smoke, leather, wood, and hazelnut coffee creamer on the palate. Macadamia nuts, honey, and hints of orange lingered at the end with a spicy bit of spirit. The finish was medium-length and a touch tannic with citrus rind, wood, and subtle earth.

This whisky hit a bit of a nostalgic note for me as the smoke, wood, and pastries reminded me of visiting my dad’s office when I was a kid. It also reminded me of a conference room where I have presented several papers over the years, which I do not think has been updated since the 1980s. I love a whisky with a nostalgic element to it; it makes the dram so much more personal and elevates the experience in a way that is not easily shared— as Joseph Conrad described the attempt to share a dream as a vain experience as no relation of it conveys the “dream-sensation” and I would extend that to relating the very personal experience of sudden nostalgia and memory.

All whisky reviews are like that to one extent or another. While I write for myself, I do hope every once in a while, these random thoughts and memories help someone else on their own meandering journey through whisky, food, or whatever path they might be on when stumbling upon this text.

Overall, this was feisty and fierce, a bit untamed at times, but still delicious. A healthy dose of water limited the spirited prickle and brought out more orange and jammy citrus marmalade on the palate.

Image Credit: Whisky Base