Whisky: Dufftown 17 Year, Special Release 2020

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 55.1%

Cask: Refill American Oak Hogshead

Age: 17 Years

Nose: Sweet cereal grains, honey, butter, grass, herbal character, pretzel dough, kiss of salt and mustard seed.

Palate: Medium-bodied, tangy citrus, lemonade, honey, touch of spice, grassy sweetness, herb garden, toasted grains, kiss of salt, creamier and more citrusy with water.

Finish: Medium to long with bright citrus, hints of earth and grass, touch of brown sugar.

Score: 6-7

Mental Image: Lemonade in the Garden

Narrative & Notes: The aroma opened with sweet cereal grains, butter, and malty-yeasty dough set by the window to rise. Outside the window sat an herb and vegetable garden from which came subtle earth, green vegetation, and herbal notes that recalled freshly picked cucumber. Honey and a green grassy sweetness blew in before pretzel dough called me back to the kitchen with a touch of salt and tangy mustard seed. Medium-bodied, the profile popped with a tangy tangerine and lime citrus before more well-trodden notes of lemonade, cayenne, and honey arrived. A green grassy sweetness, occasionally sugar cane, developed with more subtle herbal notes, sweet toasted grains, and a kiss of salt at the end. A few drops of water elevated more orange to the citrus, along with a lovely buttery cream. The finish was medium-long with bright citrus, hints of earth and grass, and a touch of brown sugar.

A few drops of water brought the nose and palate more in line with ample citrus, green grassy sweetness, a touch of herbs, and an underlying creaminess. I thought this was unexpectedly delicious, especially after the initial nose reminded me so much of yeasted dough and the herbs and spices I use for pickling. The palate featured a refreshing burst of citrus; with water, it reminded me more of Sierra Mist (RIP) or Sprite. The finish was nicely long, certainly longer than expected, with gentle citrus and brown sugar.

It has been three years since I last reviewed a Dufftown, and surprisingly, considering how much whisky I have tasted in the meantime, my notes for that much younger SMWS release had a lot in common with this one. Indeed, they shared a similar herbal and citrusy character. I believe I have had one other Dufftown, for which I did not take any notes, so my sample size for the distillery is tiny. Based on what I have tried, though, the distillery seems up my alley and worth keeping an eye out for.