Whisky: Cape Byron “The Original” Batch 003

Country/Region: Australia/New South Wales

ABV: 47%

Cask: Ex-Bourbon

Nose: Pear, apple, canvas and burlap, mildly maritime, dried grass, vanilla, wood oil, hints of industrial character.

Palate: Light-bodied, slightly creamy, vanilla, salt, orchard fruits, custard, chicory and coffee accents, green apple, vague industrial notes with dried grass at the end.

Finish: Medium to long with orchard fruit, salt, and canvas.

Score: 6-7

Mental Image: Fruit Smugglers in Southeast Asia

Narrative & Notes: The aroma spoke to Korean pears and green apples stashed in burlap sacks for a short oceanic crossing. Canvas and sweet, salty maritime air mixed with dried grass, vanilla bean, wood oil, and tallow. Vaguely industrial notions of kerosene and engine grease hid in the background behind fruitier persimmon and quince. Light-bodied and slightly creamy, the flavors were mellow and restrained with gentle vanilla, salt, orchard fruits, and teases of something more industrial. Creamy vanilla custard arrived first with hints of chicory and espresso; a kiss of salt transitioned toward green apple, dried persimmon, and quince. Dried grass carried on with a touch of apple and underlying salt as hints of tallow, engine grease, and vaguely machine shop notes fluttered around the edges. The finish was medium to long with orchard fruit, salt, and canvas.

Cape Byron is part of the new wave of Australian distilleries which have extended the industry's reach beyond Tasmania's shores. The patron saint of Islay whiskies, Jim McEwan, acted as midwife for the distillery, imprinting elements of his "Laddie way" onto the production and maturation approach at Cape Byron. The whisky felt a bit old-fashioned, in some ways, it reminded me of old-school style Bruichladdich or my minimal experiences with Glen Mhor or vintage Glenburgie. There was this fascinatingly dirty industrial quality that was stronger on the nose than the palate but a welcome bit of complexity amongst the more typical vanilla and orchard fruit that otherwise dominated.

I wish the whisky were a bit heftier, though I see the virtues in a lighter body making the whisky ideal for a simple end-of-day dram. The finish was surprisingly long, and the flavors built nicely with every sip.

Overall, I did not expect to like this as much as I did. Clearly, there are some positive whisky-related developments taking place at Cap Byron.