Whisky: Ledaig 40 Year (1972), Alambic Classique Cask 13310

Country/Region: Scotland/Islands

ABV: 48.2%

Cask: Oloroso Sherry

Age: 40 Years (Distilled 1972, Bottle 2013)

Nose: Woody and maritime, barbecue ash, shellfish, sweet pork char siu, plum, hints of fresh jackfruit and mango with time.

Palate: Medium-bodied, maritime smoke and ash, metallic iron, subtle rubber, tobacco and herbs, cigar box, mango, coconut, tropical fruit jellies.

Finish: Long and lingering with fruit, ash, and a kiss of salt.

Score: 9-10

Mental Image: The Unfathomable Mango Attacks Manchester

Narrative & Notes:  The aroma was subtle and complex, with an initial gust of driftwood as oak and maritime vibes came together. Barbecue ash called attention to sizzling shellfish on the grill with sweet roasted char siu ready to eat. Sweeter notions of rich black plums and occasional cherries were joined by jackfruit and mango with more time. Medium-bodied and velvety, the flavor profile featured metallic iron, ash, and a fruity finale. Maritime smoke hit first with an iron bite the wife described as licking a metal ashtray by the sea. A subtle rubber sat behind the iron as waves of tobacco and cigar box began to arrive. On the back palate, and building with intensity over time, were fruitier notions of ripe mango, coconut, and pandan jelly. The finish was incredibly long and fruity with mango, coconut, ash, and a kiss of salt.

As we flipped through the thick menu book at Singapore’s Auld Alliance and gazed at the overflowing walls and counters of whisky bottles, hunting for our favorite distilleries and birth-year treats, my wife’s eyes were drawn to some of the very old Ledaig. Ledaig ranks as one of her favorite distillery labels, especially young, feisty, maritime, and slightly funk malts. We had a Ledaig in each of our previous tastings in Singapore, so it seemed only appropriate to splurge on something we would never have the chance to try again.

We gave the whisky a long rest as we chatted and continued to ponder our next pour. When my wife finally raised the glass to her lips, she immediately said, “oh yes.” I had wondered what she would think, being a fan of the younger punchier whiskies, something this old might not tickle her fancy the same way. Yet, the flavors were still remarkably robust with an ashy dirty quality that felt unfamiliar against the distillery’s modern malt.

Superlative worthy— I do not quite know what words to pick to describe this malt; which synonym for divine or outstanding fits best? The flavors were wonderfully robust, present, and structured so that unmistakable layers appeared as the malt transitioned from one to another. The upfront dirtiness of the malt, or the old metal ashtray as my wife described it, was a fascinating contrast to the fruity tropical jellies at the end. As the malt sat, those fruitier elements became stronger, appearing earlier as if a giant mango were slowly emerging from the sea.