Whisky: Caol Ila 37 Year (1984), Single Malts of Scotland Director's Special

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 53.2%

Cask: Bourbon Hogshead

Age: 37 Years (Distilled 1984, Bottled 2022)

Nose: Pungent coal smoke, barbecue, guava, mango, grilled pineapple, honeysuckle, kiawe wood, dried grass and musty earth.

Palate: Full-bodied and thick, barbecue grill, dry grass, petrichor, salted mango, salty sea urchin roe, crème brûlée and vanilla bean, sea shell minerality, creamier with time, subtle medicinal quality.

Finish: Very long with grill smoke, chocolate, and an earthy minerality.

Score: 9-10

Mental Image: Museum of Maritime Oddities

Narrative & Notes: The aroma was pungent and sinus-clearing with coal smoke and the sweet caramelization of meat, fat, and brown sugar with a touch of Worcester sauce on the grill. Beyond the barbecue were fruitier notions of guava, mango, grilled pineapple, and sweet, slightly floral honeysuckle. Kiawe, or mesquite wood, continued to smolder as dried grass and musty dry earth emerged from the background. Full-bodied and weighty, on the palate were familiar notes of dirty barbecue grill, dry grass, and earthy petrichor, which led to salty fruits— grilled pineapple, shoyu green mango, green papaya, sea urchin roe, and all manner of fermented salty treats. An underlying sea shell minerality paired with coal smoke and subtle medicinal hints of fluoride as the flavors developed. The spirit turned creamier toward the end with cacao nibs, crème brûlée, and vanilla bean, which came on more strongly with a few drops of water. The finish was very long with grill smoke, chocolate, and an earthy minerality.

Wow! I hoped this bottle would be a bit special, and it absolutely was. Okay, I am probably a bit more biased than usual in this case, a friend purchased this bottle, and I took a nice portion of it to pour for a special occasion this year. I came into the malt hoping it would heighten the occasion and justify the time and expense of getting it. I thought it delivered and checked many boxes: rich smoke, tropical fruit, and loads of earth. I was surprised it was not more maritime, there were hints to be sure, especially the salty-green mango and sea urchin roe run of flavors, but that was about as coastal as it got.

Some malts feel a bit tame and restrained with time; after nearly four decades, I was impressed at just how feisty this malt remained. In that, it reminded me of some of the best Port Ellen I have tried, which retained a delightful pungency and only slowly revealed deeper complexity.

Overall, the flavors were rich, robust, well-integrated, and well-structured. A remarkable malt to mark a special moment.