Whisky: Port Ellen 31 Year (1982), Douglas Laing Cask DL 9964

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 51.5%

Cask: Refill Hogshead

Age: 31 Years (Distilled May 1982, Bottled 22 Aug. 2013)

Nose: Green wood smoke, acrid, earthy, slightly farmy, dried grass, hints of pear and pecan, subtle leather, anise, and Sharpie markers.

Palate: Medium-bodied, oily, green coffee beans, licorice, roasted peanut, grass and herbal, motor oil and rubber bait lures, green apple candies, subtle chew tobacco.

Finish: Medium to long with green wood smoke, chocolate, and subtle fruit.

Score: 7

Mental Image: Coffee Plantation Curing Racks

Narrative & Notes: The aroma was acrid and sharp at first, with green wood smoke, dry earth, cow paddies, dry grass, and all the familiar scents downwind of an elephant exhibit. Grassy, earthy decay occasionally parted, so more subtle notions of pears and pecans emerged with hints of leather, anise, and Sharpie markers. Medium-bodied and oily, the flavor profile was less acrid and earthy, with more fruit and tar. Licorice and green coffee beans arrived first, with an underlying nuttiness running somewhere between roasted peanuts and creamy whipped peanut butter. Green wood smoke came on with big grassy-herbal notes of hay, tobacco, and even a touch of marijuana funk. Motor oil and tar developed toward the end with new rubber boots and fishing lures, while hints of green apple candies and chew tobacco lingered. Medium to long, the finish featured a return of acrid green wood smoke, chocolate, and subtle orchard fruit.

My sample size of Port Ellen is not huge, but this felt pretty atypical from the others I have been fortunate enough to try. It reminded me a bit more of a Laphroaig at times, or perhaps a very mature peated Glenturret. It lacked the charcoal and maritime vibes I usually enjoy on Port Ellen; in fact, this was absent really any maritime influence. Perhaps some of the green wood smoke and acrid qualities were similar to the younger Cadenhead’s bottle I reviewed recently, but otherwise, this was something a touch different than my previous experiences.

Overall, it is always a delight to try a long silent or demolished distillery— or in the case of Port Ellen, one due to return to life very soon. While this was not the weakest Port Ellen I have tried, it fell short of my expectations. I cannot say this flavor profile would have me coming back to this bottle very often (though if I owned this or another Port Ellen, I would probably feel differently).

Image Credit: Master of Malt