Whisky: Rosebank 18 Year (1991), Gordon & MacPhail Casks 2119-2121

Country/Region: Scotland/Lowland

ABV: 55.3%

Cask: Refill Bourbon Barrel

Age: 18 Year (Distilled 3 July 1991, Bottled 22 Aug. 2009)

Nose: Sunflowers, dandelion greens, potting soil, mountain yam with a touch of salty roasted pumpkin seeds, spirited with a touch of ethanol or alcohol swabs, chalk, linseed oil, wood polish with more time.

Palate: Medium-bodied, garden, sunflower and dandelion green, compost and earth, chalky, honey, grapefruit, fermented cacao and wood oil, peppery at the end.

Finish: Medium and slightly sour with fermented cacao, citrus, and wood oil.

Score: 4-5

Mental Image: Garden Composting

Narrative & Notes: Restrained in its sweetness, the aroma featured a green garden bouquet of sunflowers, dandelion greens, potting soil, chalk, and a touch of compost in the background. Grated mountain yam offered a fresh, starchy note with hints of salty roasted pumpkin seeds. A less pleasant spirited heat asserted itself on occasion with alcohol swabs, chalk, linseed oil, and wood polish following. Medium-bodied with a familiar garden profile of sunflowers, dandelion greens, and sprouted mung beans. A touch of compost arrived on the mid-palate with mellow earth, chalk, and sawdust. Honey and grapefruit provided a sweeter side to the affair, while fermented cacao, wood oil, and linseed oil lingered at the end with cracked peppercorns. The finish was medium and slightly sour with fermented cacao, compost, citrus, and wood oil.

I reviewed another 1991 vintage a few years back; it was released a few years younger, yet it felt more elegant and subtle. It had similar garden vibes but without the odd sour or sulfur note that reminded me of the compost bin, especially a compost bin with lots of kitchen scraps. I was surprised how hot this felt on the nose and how short it felt on the finish; the flavors were not particularly well-integrated and, to paraphrase a friend, it was the sort of release that leaves one saying, “yeah, [the distillery] closed for a reason.” I did not find much difference with water or a long rest beyond more potent citrus, bitter orange, and calamansi than grapefruit.

Overall, neither of the Rosebank I was fortunate to try were particularly compelling, but I know there are epic Rosebank releases out there. Why else would so much time and effort have been put into resurrecting the distillery and brand? Maybe someday I will find out, though I will note in closing that this was rated pretty highly on Whiskybase, so it is also possible the distillery just is not in the cards for me.