Whisky: Bunnahabhain 11 Year (2009), Signatory Vintage Cask 900074

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 67.3%

Cask: First Fill Sherry Butt

Age: 11 Years (Distilled 17 March 2009, Bottled 15 June 2020)

Nose: Stewed fruits, spirited prickle, cinnamon and Sichuan peppercorn, fruit leather and jam, oiled oak, nuts, honey.

Palate: Medium-bodied and viscous, stewed fruits and cinnamon, hints of cloves and ginger, jammy berries, toasted oak, honey, subtle candied nuts, spirited prickle and numbing pepper at the end.

Finish: Medium-length with stewed jammy fruit and spice.

Score: 5-6

Mental Image: Bon Maman’s Top Secret Security Clearance

Narrative & Notes: Spicy and sweet, the aroma was initially dominated by sherried fruits and a high-octane prickle. Sichuan peppercorns numbed my nose while a pleasant spread of jams, crackers, nuts, and honey awaited my pleasure. A super-soaker blast of water surfaced rich leathery, almost meaty notes on the nose with parma ham, strawberry, and balsamic— though the prickle occasionally seemed to intensify after the water. The palate was medium-bodied and stood up to water very well, maintaining a lovely viscous mouthfeel. Stewed fruits and spices arrived first as jam-making was in full swing with tart blackberries and raspberries, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves. Oak and honey lingered on the back end with subtle candied notes, white pepper, and a spirited prickle. Water cooled, but did not remove, the prickle while highlighting more jammy fruits and a subtle salt. The finish was medium-length with stewed jammy fruits and spice.

These high-octane, heavily sherried Bunnahabhain are not to my taste. I do not care for whiskies that approach or even cross the hazmat line, and I am too mercurial to be bothered with always adding water. A good friend offered me this sample when he opened the bottle; it then sat around for a good year or thereabout before I finally poured it. Amazingly, it had lost none of the spirited pepper and tingle in the intervening period.

I thought a torrent of water improved the balance of flavors and brought some intriguing savory elements to the nose. While water did tamp down some of the spirited heat, it never entirely washed it away; there was always some prickle on the nose and the back of the palate.

Overall, a bold, assertive, rocket-fuel-ready whisky, I am this sure will delight those drawn to elevated abvs and bold sherry maturations. I found the whisky a bit unwieldy and shallow, though I am curious how the bottle might continue to develop and open up as it is exposed to air; under the right circumstances, I could see this improving nicely.