Whisky: Glen Garioch 12 Year (2008), Douglas Laing for K&L

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 52.6%

Cask: Refill Barrel

Age: 12 Years (Distilled Sept. 2008, Bottled Aug. 2021)

Nose: Citrus, pine wood, yeasted dough, bergamot, orange oil, pine resin, bruised tropical fruit, prickly heat, turmeric tea.

Palate: Medium-bodied, oily, menthol and pine, chamomile tea, overripe guava and nectarine, grapefruit, spirited, pine and menthol carried through to the end.

Finish: Medium-length with mild waxiness, citrus, and mint.

Score: 5

Mental Image: Cocktail Class Experiments

Narrative & Notes: Yeasty and citrusy, the aroma started with classic Glen Garioch citrus rinds, orange, oil, and bruised tropical fruits, or maybe slightly overripe nectarines. A youthful maltiness shone through with yeasty bread dough just out of the proving drawer before a slightly wild nose of pine resin, Douglas Fir, bergamot, and Pine-sol appeared. A bit of prickly heat waved hello while mellow earthy notes of turmeric tea added depth. Medium-bodied and oily, the palate was loaded with menthol and herbal teas paired off to dance with slightly overripe guava, nectarine, and mango. A youthful, spirited heat made itself known behind the fruits as elements of pine and menthol lingered toward the end. The finish was medium length with slightly waxy notes of citrus and mint.

A funky and righteous Glen Garioch— this was inescapably youthful, but it well-embodied the essence of Glen Garioch. A few drops of water smoothed out some of the spirited prickles while leaving the mouthfeel and flavors mostly intact. Elements of sweet mint, sugar cane, and a hint of Thai basil popped more with water and were generally complementary to the initial fruits, which then carried on nicely through the finish.

Overall, this Beam-Suntory distillery does not get half of the attention it should. It is not just a “Glen something or other,” it produces a wonderfully oily and viscous spirit loaded with ripe orchard, tropical, and stone fruits. I thought this was an excellent example of what the distillery can do, and while it does not have quite the depth and richness of malts twice its age— where I think Glen Garioch shines— for $50, it is an incredible value proposition. Considering broader whisky market trends, I do not know how that price is even possible at K&L, but it is (or was).

Image Credit: Whiskybase