Whisky: Highland Park 13 Year SMWS 4.249 “The mermaid's marmalade”

Country/Region: Scotland/Islands

ABV: 64.6%

Cask: Refill Oloroso Butt

Age: 13 Years (Distilled 13 May 2004)

Nose: Salty brine, acrid coal dust, hints of citrus and tobacco, rusted iron, metallic, salted plums, hints of strawberry and shiso.

Palate: Full-bodied and oily, acrid coal smoke, maritime, treacle, salted plums and lemons, umeshu, tobacco, salted caramel, metallic and drying toward the end with coat dust, iron filings, and leather.

Finish: Medium-length with salted fruit and leather.

Score: 6

Mental Image: Robot Overboard on High Seas.

Narrative & Notes: The aroma was industrial, with loads of maritime and metallic notes that left the impression of rusting rebar, iron barrel hoops, and coal dust. Briny with hints of citrus, tobacco, and mint, the cask seemed to heighten the salinity with salted plums and hints of salted rim strawberry-shiso cocktails. The palate was acrid and intense with a full-bodied oily spirit. Intensely maritime and industrial with coal smoke, iron, leather, and salt. Occasionally sweet; notes of rich treacle, salted plums, salted lemons, and salted caramel came through. Toward the end were hints of leather, umeshu, and high surf as the dram became more drying and tannic. The finish was medium-length with plenty of salted fruits and worn leather.

An intense experience, this oloroso Highland Park punched with a full fist of maritime peat. The oloroso cask amplified the dirty industrial nature of the peated spirit and lifted it to a coal-fired industrial crescendo. I thought I wanted a dirty industrial and maritime Highland Park, but this was a tad acrid for my taste. I missed some of the lighter elements of the spirit, especially citrus, which typically provides a balance against the maritime coal-fired steamship aspect of the peated malt.

Overall, an intense affair— not one for the faint-hearted; I was surprised that the cask seemed to allow the spirit to take the diver’s seat. A few drops of water toned down the aggressiveness and more acrid notes while leaving the flavor profile more or less intact and consistent with the addition of stronger fruit notes and a hint of chocolate. Without water, I scored this a five; a few drops took it up another level.

Image Credit: Whisky Hammer