Whisky: Strathmill 11 Year SMWS 100.29 “Misbehaving in a country house”

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 57.2%

Cask: Ex-Bourbon (8Y), First Fill Oloroso (3Y)

Age: 11 Year (Distilled 25 March 2010)

Nose: Chocolate, fruit, and salt. Milk chocolate, fruity Starburst candies, and red vines promised a night out at the movies with hints of sea salt caramel and crème brûlée. The salt transitioned toward a sweet, cooling sea breeze with hints of spoiled wild fruits— strawberry guavas and papayas by the trailside.

Palate: Medium-bodied and oily with notes of chocolate and fruit. Tootsie rolls dominated the conversation at our tasting as chocolate and a nice waxiness hit the palate. Candy gradually opened to fruit and pink strawberry lemonade tootsie rolls. Ruby chocolate came to mind with instant hot chocolate mix and the vague hint of a campfire. A few drops of water radically altered the experience— suddenly, the palate was dominated by passionfruit and tinned pineapple with a touch of oaky spice.

Finish:  Lingering notes of chocolate— or with water, tinned pineapple.

Score: 6

Mental Image: Tootsie Rolls on the Pineapple Express

Notes: I did not expect to enjoy this dram half as much as I did. A six might not seem like a high score, but considering my general aversion to aggressive cask finishes— especially big dumb sherry bombs— I was surprised how much was going on in the glass. I would have scored this a four straight up, but a few drops of water elevated the experience. Suddenly the waxy candy and chocolate-adjacent notes transformed into tropical fruits and sugary syrup. It was as if a magic wand had been waved over the dram, taking it into a magical dimension of tropical vibes— or, at the least vibes you might find in a fruit cup.

I do not have much experience with Strathmill; this is my first review of a single malt from the distillery, so I have no idea how it fits in with the typical distillery profile. The seventh edition of Jackon’s Malt Compendium suggests the house style of the Diageo-owned distillery is desserty, while the Malt Whisky Yearbook describes its spirit as light. My notes mostly jive with those basic descriptors— it certainly did come across as a dessert whisky. However, in this instance, it had a richness that elevated it beyond only being a sweet light nightcap to an evening.