Whisky: Caol Ila 9 Year (2009), La Maison du Whisky “Artist Collective”

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 57.2%

Cask: Refill Sherry Butts

Age: 9 Years (Distilled 2009, Bottled 2019)

Nose: Maritime salt, weathered oak, and citrus. Burnt citrus peel mingled with salt, tar, and saltwater taffy notes which drifted over the maritime meat of muscles and prawns grilled over charcoal. Weathered oak, salt, and preservation chemicals left the impression of a boardwalk curio shop and a promise of mystery in a jar.

Palate: Medium-bodied and sharp with citrus, salt, and smoke. Citrus oil clung to the tongue as vanilla, caster sugar, and grilled lemons hit with a spike of sweetness. As the dram settled, creamier notes of vanilla, citrus peel, and dried beachgrass waving on the dunes appeared. Grilled shellfish and a mineral-rich smoke lingered in the background with heady impressions of maritime salt. Slightly acrid and sweet toward the finish with dirty coal and grilled prawn.

Finish: Lingering notes of charcoal grill and saltwater.

Score: 5

Mental Image: Curio Shop Specimen Barbecue

Notes: I love a good Caol Ila, and I have enjoyed some of the other entries into La Maison du Whisky’s Artist Collective Series, so I was disappointed that this one did not work for me. The aroma was pleasantly citrus and maritime, with hints of delicious seafood barbecue and boardwalk adventures. Things came a bit undone on the palate; the initial hit of sweet-salty citrus faded toward a lovely cream and then a slightly acrid bitterness at the end. 

Typically I love a dirty and well-structured Caol Ila in which clean layers of herbs, salt, and citrus come through. Yet this dram felt a bit hot and sharp as those citrus and salt notes spiked and drowned out the maritime meats and grass. The wife was not a fan and thought the dram too sweet for her taste— she described it as something like soy sauce soaked grass covered in sugar and flambéed.

A few drops of water lowered the intensity of the dram and brought forward an oilier mouthfeel. The acrid bitter notes toward the end did not disappear, but water amped up the citrus, which provided more balance. I still found myself not a massive fan of the experience. It was a fine dram with some interesting elements, but it was not the sort of bottle I would grab off the shelf or order if there were other options. Perhaps I have judged this dram a bit harshly in light of my love for Caol Ila and faith that LMDW only bottles excellent spirits— the weight of expectation can be a real killer.

Image Credit: Whiskybase