Whisky: Lochside 23 Year (1981), Lombard Jewels of Scotland

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 50%

Cask: Oak

Age: 23 Years (Distilled 1981, Bottled 2004)

Nose: White chocolate, stone fruit, and tropical vibes. An initial gust of ethanol, or rubbing alcohol vapors, parted to reveal sweet white chocolate and cocoa butter. Hints of pineapple and young coconut dodged between ripe peaches and white nectarines. A subtle floral tiare lingered in the background with coconut, lime, and a kiss of salt. A few drops of water accentuated the tropical fruit and tiare, or Tahitian gardenia.

Palate: Medium-bodied with a coy sweetness and notes of stone fruit, wood, and tropical florals. Nectarines and tiare, the Tahitian gardenia, whisked me off on vacation. There was a subtle transition on the mid-palate toward an earthy-mineral quality with sandalwood, young coconut, and a sandy compost pit. Hints of vanilla oil and wood chips came on toward the back end with dried, slightly fermented coconut meat and starfruit. Water brought out more fruit and musty garden while pushing the wood into the background.

Finish: Short at first, but built deeper into the glass with unripened fruits and a kiss of salt.

Score: 7

Mental Image: Papeʻete Customs Line

Notes: One experiences a deluge of tropical aromas standing in the customs line at Papeʻete, especially after arriving in the evening— that quiet time shortly before the airport shutters for the day— as a warm breeze blows across the tarmac. The customs line can be long, or pre-covid it was anyway, and the languid ceiling fans do nothing against the evening's still potent tropical heat. The tropical aroma of this dram put me right back in that customs line; it took a while to develop, but once it did, it was delicious.

Usually, after such a lovely first experience with a distillery, I would say I am excited to try more, but the reality is, this was probably my one shot. The distillery shuttered in 1992 and was demolished shortly thereafter. I enjoyed the slightly funky spirit, especially the tropical high notes and subtle mineral-earthy undercurrent. It reminded me of a great Arran though I wished the finish were a bit longer or did not take quite so long to build up. The dram was like a train that needed a stretch of track to build up speed. It was a bit sneaky in that way, and I could easily see consuming several pours of it before realizing that the whisky had disappeared quicker than intended.