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Old Pulteney 28 Year (1988)

Whisky: Old Pulteney 28 Year (1988)

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 59%

Cask: Bourbon Cask

Age: 28 Year (Distilled 1988, Bottled 2016)

Nose: Citrus, spice, and sharpie markers. Sweet citrus cleared the sinuses as lemons and rangpur limes— a floral mandarin orange and citron hybrid— appeared at the front of sharpie markers and rubbing alcohol. Sharp, the citrus and alcohol left the impression of bleach and mop buckets. Slightly herbal, a subtle maritime layer appeared with shrimp shells and butter.

Palate: Thick and full-bodied with citrus, cocoa butter, and spice notes. White chocolate and floral rangpur limes left the impression of lemon pledge candies, while hints of licorice offered a more appealing salt water taffy. Thick and heavy, hot and spirited, the dram pulled toward an astringent citrus pith. Notes of fruit punch flavored Life Savers and a kiss of salt surfaced with more heat on the back end, which left the palate tingling. Water brought out more citrus, but it took a good tablespoon to tamp down the spirit.

Finish: Lingering citrusy astringency and refined sugar.


Score: 2

Mental Image: Lemon Pledge Cough Drops


Notes: Wow, it has been a while since I encountered a dram I strongly disliked. Initially, the aroma was quite pleasant with hints of lemon, or lemon-scented cleaning products, citrus fruits, and hints of floral and maritime notes. Though I will note on subsequent tastings, even though I gave it ample time to rest, the aroma was hot and spirited at the outset; there was no waiting period. That isopropyl rubbing alcohol note on the nose should have been a klaxon warning as the aroma took on the aspect of a sharpie marker or antiseptic cleaning solution. Perhaps it would have if more pleasant maritime notes had not slowly slid in and, at least during the first tasting, left me thinking the profile would be fine.

The palate was almost a repeat, as a surprisingly thick and viscous spirit carried an intriguing mix of citrus and candies. The ethanol note, which brought cheap grain spirit and blurred college parties to mind, appeared primarily on the back end. The dram seemed incredibly drying and astringent at times–– not a tannic drying— but a citrus pith that left the mouth parched and in need of water.

I was surprised just how hot, unrefined, or poorly integrated this dram felt after almost three decades in the cask. I cannot imagine the wood was very active, and I suspect, had I tasted this blind, I would have thought this was under ten years of age. I understand the price was quite attractive, but I wondered who decided to bottle this as a single cask. I assume there are those who quite liked this, or I hope there were, but it was a bit of a wild miss for me.