Whisky: BenRiach 12 Year (2008) SMWS 12.67 "Horseback in the forest"

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 57%

Cask: Bourbon Hogshead (10Y), 2nd Fill Charred Red Wine Barrique (2Y)

Age: 12 Years (Distilled 8 Dec. 2008)

Nose: Sweet cream, grassy sugars, green apple, apple sauce, hints of sour sop and tangy apple cider vinegar.

Palate: Medium-bodied, sweet apple cider, guava candies, pulped soursop, milk chocolate toward the end with waxy tropical fruits.

Finish: Medium-length, waxy fruit skins, apple, POG juice.

Score: 6

Mental Image: Fake Apple Crates and Tropical Fruit Smugglers

Narrative & Notes: Apples, apples, apples, the nose was all apples beyond an initial sweet cream, grassy sweetness, and hints of more tropical soursop. Green apples dominated, though time and a bit of water brought out more apple sauce, green Jolly Ranchers, and a tangy apple cider vinegar. The apple notes were more restrained on the medium-bodied palate, which featured sweet fruity tropical vibes with guava candies and pulped soursop juice. A kiss of salt opened the way for milk chocolate on the back end with a final wave of waxy fruits and POG (passion-orange-guava) juice. The finish was medium length with a mild waxy fruit skin, apple, and POG.

I thought this was a bit of a roller coaster, but I was incredibly impressed with the result. I have been consistently disappointed in the BenRiach bottles that SMWS has put out, and I have no idea why our local whisky group keeps including tastings. As one of the organizers, you would think I would have some kind of super veto that I could through down and ban unfailingly disappointing distilleries. I know I was not alone, and the rest of the high command, or whatever we might call ourselves, was about ready to issue such a ban. This bottle staved off the lettre de cachet or writ of banishment… at least for now.

While the aroma was simple and straightforward with a bounty of sweet apple notes, the whisky took a decidedly tropical turn on the palate. POG juice is an absolute staple in Hawaiʻi and a core memory for many of our whisky group members. The flavor profile did not have much depth, and the nose and palate both had a bit more spirited prickle than I care for, but it was light years better than I expected.